Our tractor developed a leak under the front axle .On closer inspection found the 4WD splash guard tube had worked its way up into the seal . I try to use my lift as much as possible . This was the perfect way to line up and or remove front axle off tractor .
Using a 4" tie down strap and doubling it up.Moved the plate close to uprights . leaving the box scrapper on the back gave it a little counter balance too . But probably isn't necessary .
Loosening of the front adjustment bolt .
Capped off hydro lines to steering ram . Put a tag on one to get them back in the same location .
Remove the 4 bolts that the Trunnion in
slide guard back knock the roll pin out of the sleeve .The plastic collar above holds the tube . Maybe its worn out and pushed through taking the seal out ?
You can line the pin up with hole in oil pan to punch it through . I removed both sleeves and drive shaft .
Moveing the lift up and down a bit and a little wiggle on the wheels and it came right out . You might want to support one end on a tie-rod mount with a jack so it doesn't roll over on you .
Check inner sleeves and seals and replace as needed on trunnion and oil pan .
No issues with lift holding up front end . Place jack stands in front and let it rest on them . When moving it up and down watch your clearance on engine bonnet . Mine was fine the whole time .
Kit came with new crush sleeve seal , O ring and nylock nut .
Hmmm a bit of a problem . Have the right size but not in a deep socket . In this case I'll cut it down and make a specialty tool instead of buying one .Chances are this will be the only time I'll use this size socket 1"5/16.
Had some thick wall tube stock to weld sections together with .
Remove nut
removed seal and crush sleeve and O ring
Shop made seal installer . Grease lip of seal . install sleeve and nut . Now come the fun part I didn't plan for . Lol turning the nut turns wheels axle and pinion .Also hole in framing won't allow a socket to get in after assembly . After trial and error I ended up calling a friend . After talking to Blayne I got a better idea on how to tackle my problem .
Rolling the axle to my bench I was able to strap both wheels to the upright 4x4 . Next grabbing the pipe wrench (36 I do believe) attached it to the underside of axle housing so to would catch on shelf locking everything down . Took a good effort to get 210 ft lbs on the torque wrench . I was pretty happy to hear the click and clicked it one more time .
The cap and tube got riveted together . reassemble in reverse order . Fairly simple . Locking down the axle for pinion torque was the true challenge .
PS . I'd like to thank the like minded individuals that work for the various color machines that give out 110% to give us ( the end user ) minimal down time and great experience in our busy fast pace environment .
Another season coming to an end, aeration is just around the corner . Course weathered very well in the extra dry summer we had .
Still a pretty busy place .
Get out and play the fine Nova Scotia golf courses before we put them to bed
I have a 2005 John Deere 4320, compact I recencly bought. I have to take off the timing cover and now the oil pan? It's is a 4 wheel drive. do i have to take out the front axle also?
ReplyDeletefixing to do the same operation, I my case I have no movement with the rocker arms, and there is a leak at he crank case pulley. so the timing cover has to come off,and I assume the front axle also?
ReplyDeleteyes i'm thinking you will have to drop axle to get oil pan off . I know on the kubota I had too for sure .It did come out easy .
ReplyDeleteI cannot seem to be able to lock the axle down and be able to apply torque to the nut. The shaft and the nut turn together any tips?
ReplyDeleteWe set the whole thing on a trailer with side and strapped wheels to side angles then with a impact gun and a 1-5/8 deep well socket removed lock nut
ReplyDelete