Fairway cutting problem

This past week one of the fairway units was showing a very different cut after a jump in growth . 

         Regular adjustments are done on both machines . It was surprising to see this line dead center of cut . At first I assumed the jump in growth might have slowed down the reel motor . They were cutting/grooming pretty hard that day . 

After talking to the dealer for suggestions I checked the HOC again and did a test of the front reel motors by removing the small line and plugging the hose end and running the reel to check for bypassing fluid .Just a dribble on all three . Then center and wing reels were switched to see if it made any difference . The above pic showed some difference.But the cut still didn't look right . After the last test I switched the center reel motors on fairway units with pretty much the same effect .The problem didn't follow to the other machine which rules out the reel motor. Yesterday I had time to regrind reels on the problem unit .

Problem solved . These are the new reels I had put on last winter . They came with just a light spin grind . I'm use to having a full relief and don't usually grind the reels till the end of next month . Hard to believe the little core nursery we restarted in October 2013 is ready for sod removal to do some repairs on the course . 

Checking the cut on the first hole this morning when he went out ,dark strips on side are just wheel marks they fade out pretty quick . 

and then again 3/4 way into his mow set . Cut still looking great . Triplex on the side . I was mowing collars and approaches . Drove by for a picture . 

The cut from the other 5410 unit . Still looking good but will be time to get it in for a spin grind .

 Sometimes when you get stuck in a routine you may over look what is reely going on . 

Always learning . Thanks again Bill at Vesey's

Local Turf News

Welcome local Turf News readers . 

I was approached to write some information for a tech section of the local Turf News . I'll be providing an insight on the tech side of the business for the next few issues . Last issue featured the artical I submitted below . 

Winter has finally made way for the season we have all been waiting and planning for “SPRING”.

It was a good long winter to get most of the gear back in shape.

 The greens wintered OK considering the extended winter.  Most of the gear has been sitting idle for almost 5 months except for winter servicing. When the crew start showing up is the time I’ll start up all the mowing gear and get them to operating temperatures. A good fifteen minutes will get the batteries charged back up. Run them wide open after they warm up for a bit. After they run and cool I’ll check for leaks .Some of the gear had their hydraulic fluids changed as per service interval. It’s a good time to double check your work before they start mowing. Our course provide some mowing challenges and the large area mowers are gone over very well paying attention to frame welds ,loose or damaged hydraulic lines ,dented rotary decks and damaged reels . After all our reels and bed knives are ground, I wait for the first down time chance to service both grinders and tarp them so their ready to grind. It will also be time to bring in one of these Ryan’s 24 and install the job savers. Normal routine here so they will be ready for when the Superintendent needs them. When you’re working in this part of the business be aware of the seasons and jobs being done on the course. If you can get things ready just before they are needed you will be able to hopefully stay ahead of the game. Good communication or weekly meetings will get everyone on the same page make jobs flow more easily. Next up: think about what happens next .For me it’s the tarps came off and after they acclimatise for a bit Jason (superintendent) will measure the height of cut and will let me know what HOC to set greens mowers to for the first cut. Yes my greens mowers are kept right where I can see them, that way they won’t “accidently” get bumped or get run over .I take pride in how the machines cut and constantly adjusting them daily during the season. Does it take more time? Not really, tweaking adjustments prolongs your cutting edges benefitting the health of the turf and prolongs the need for grinding. All the machines have next service hour’s intervals written on filters to speed up servicing. If you’re looking for ideas in turf tech area I also have a Blog that you can check out. http://golfcoursemechanics.blogspot.ca/ 

Good luck to everyone this season and keep them rolling and sharp.

Thanks for reading .

Toro rough mowers damaged front roller bearing repair

I have had pretty good luck with this style roller so far . After checking the newer 4300 grounds master I noticed one of the upgrade bearings was broken . I'm starting to think that the ball bearing failures on the fairway unit Reel mower are breaking do to impact of underlying bedrock on the course .

Only have a stick welder and made my first attempt using a washer . Started to move but broke the welds .

Next up was a 1/2 " nut I used the bolt to hang on to weld . No problem to beat the remaining piece of the race out . 

Pressed in one new bearing and pumped  grease in a good 30 times before installing spacer and then pressing in the other bearing . 

Use red loc-tight . About the only thing that will keep the bolt in place . 

Torqued it in place . The metal roller will wear out if you have a lot of cart paths . Some of the guys are going with Nylon aftermarket ones with good success.  

Tru turf roller in for a check up

Our tru turf is used more and more for rolling greens and leveling out new sod . It was time to get it in for a check up . It's a pretty easy nuts and bolts machine to repair and is wise to keep some wearable items in stock . Today I noticed the chain needed replacing .

New chain cut and installed . I use rope ratchets and bungy cords to keep tensioners off the chain .  

The top gear bearing has lots of play so more parts where ordered now before it starts leaking . It's good to know where your machine is manufactured because sometimes parts will take 4 + weeks to to show up . Not a good thing when it's your only one. So I'm planning ahead now to get the parts in time  . This machine is made in Australia.  Another machine I have waited for parts if not available on our continent is the Cushman (rear end parts at the sister course years ago).( British made)

Also found the bearing that holds and and gives the smoothing decks its movement was starting to let go . This is by far the best way to change the bearing out . Two tripod stands and a piece of ply wood and left the linkage hooked up . 

Loosen the set screws on the collar (2) and remove the 4 bolts . 

Raising the lift gives you access to the bolt holding the bearing on the shaft . 

And done . I also keep linkage parts and smoothing roller bearings in stock They can go at any time . 

Jacobsen Greens King IV under mount mower lift stops

I have to mention these stops . I've been around these machines as an operator and technician for 18 + years . The Greens King IV gave our courses a great cut for many years and I think we have the last one here at the course . I have sold off a few of them in the past and have 3 sets of reels to use on the 2001 model we have left . The newer model must have been a custom order because the reels are very heavy duty and look more like the fairway  3400 reels . The lift frame was a bit different and the hooks have to be removed to get them on the machine ..unlike the old style where you could maneuver them in place . On GolfTechs site the guys where talking about these under mount lift stops . I decided to purchase a set and it is the perfect solution to the problem I was having . Liked them so much I purchased a second set . Now I can change the reels around as need in a lot less time . 

Part number . They are 22 $ each Canadian . A good heavy duty quality . 

Old style hook . Sorry about the pic but it's still ridiculously freezing in the shop . 

In the R+R catalog it shows them this way for the GK V and works great on the GK IV in the same position .  ( shows the other way in R+R) These are the OEM ones . The steel is almost twice as thick as the old ones and so easy to switch out reels now .

Accue Gauge shortened up

We have this Toro 3150 Q for a few seasons now . Great machine but adjusting HOC is a reel nuisance .I have tried everything but nothing to no avail . Our other course has quit a few of them and their tech shortened his gauge to speed things up . I did the same today , Enough was enough . Now it is a breeze to check and adjust the HOC. 

Using a cut of wheel I was able to shorten it a little past the wear marks on the bottom of gauge .

Re-drilled the hole .

Now the adjustments can be made without the lift and or bucket roller being in the way.

I don't like to alter this type of tool but I'm glad I finally did .

After use the gauges are put away hanging in my office . Safest place , that way they won't accidentally get kicked or knocked over .

Rewinding pull cords before they are a problem

This is the time of year that I go over all the small engines . I check every machine for frayed / worn pull cords .

Fraying up by pull handle . Will it last the season . No .

At the other end it's pretty much gone . The young guys like to pull on them to the very end . If you have a couple of tall guys then they will rip them out because of their extra reach . 

They best thing I have found so far is a furniture clamp with the padded rubber jaws . Pull the cord out all the way and clamp . I mount it in the vice to make it even easier . 

Small straight pick pulls the knot out easily . 

Snip the knot off . I was surprise to see just a single knot . Usually it's a figure eight type looped through the openings . Not much room for that type of knot .

Lay out the new line beside the old and cut it off a little longer . 

Seal up the ends with a torch to keep from fraying . 

Slides right back in , if not guide it with the straight pick . 

Pull a good length out  

Then knot it .. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to slide up against knot and pull tight . 

Tuck in the loose end and pull new pull cord till it's in all the way.

Nice and clean . I like to spray some dry graphite for lubrication.  

Same idea for the handle . This is a Stihl back pack blower pull cord mechanism .But my holder will work on most anything you come across . One more thing If you scrap equipment keep the pull cords and string them up new and hang them up . It's a big time saver when your up to your ears in work and one comes in with the  cord ripped out of it . Also train the staff not to pull them to the end stop.

Club Car wheel bearings

This process is pretty much the same for most wheel bearings .  

There are special tools to remove the dust covers but this works fine . Work your way around till its off , 

Removing the cotter pin I find a pair of side cutters works best . I'm using the hub for leverage . No need to try to straighten it out ..it will pull through . Then throw it away . Cotter pins are to be replaced new when removed . 

Pull the hub off the spindle 

If you see a rusty race than the bearing and race should both be replaced . Keep track which bearing goes with which race if they are fine . Mismatched parts will wear a little faster . Always replace the bearing and race together . Don't take the EASY route and throw a bearing in an call it a day . 

The hub felt fine before removal and wheel spun very well ... to well . It may have not lasted the season if I hadn't pulled it apart .The seal was bad letting water and debris in flushing out the grease . 

Races are easily tapped out with a punch and hammer tap lightly and work 180 degrees direction to tap them out  

Your pressing a steel race into an aluminium hub so don't over do it . Light pressure and check to see if it is seated properly 

Loading up the bearing with grease . A few pumps of grease on the palm of your hand works best for me .

Work grease in from this side of the bearing . Scrape and press the grease into the bearing and work your way around it . 

It should look like this when your done .

Do the inside one first . Be sure to install a new seal .

Press it in till level with hub . 

Rub some grease on seal lip.

Clean up the spindle and the area where the seal sits with a fine emery cloth and grease it  . Most likely there will be a bit of a groove but it should seal the dirt out OK. 

Slide the hub and bearing on spindle .

This is the most important part . You want to snug (1/32 to 1/16th of a turn)then rotate hub forwards and backwards a few revolutions to set the bearing and grease . There are INCH pound torque specks if your not sure . Most bearings I done have been between 10 and 25 inch pounds . Not finished yet here comes the most important part.... back off again and loosely goes to the nearest castle nut groove to cotter pin hole in spindle . Finger tight basically.

New cotter pin installed. I cut the back one flush and wrap the other one in front of bearing adjustment nut .

Busy today .Finished this Club Car that we have set up for irrigation work then the flexes came back in to set HOC lower and install the front whillie rollers . Next week the rest of the snow gear will get cleaned up and put away . 2 more gas fleet carts and on to small engines . Approach mower went out to clean up any long grass around the greens .