Last season we are having issues with adjustments and buckets falling off etc.
Yokes, bars and chains are well worn and have been repaired many times.
We have 2015 models and signs of getting new are looking pretty bleak with the currant Canadian dollar value.
So, spending a little less money to get a better greens cut will be well worth it'
I had ordered them way back and at the time listed at a little over 700$ by the time i received them a few months later the price sky rocketed to over $1100 Canadian.
A kit does the 3 decks.
Pretty easy to change them over.
Yoke kit new part # there are a few types so best to give them your serial #
A few pics of the wear on the old ones.
Been repaired a few times already on an 8-year-old mower it's time.
Tech tip, when that roll pin goes on the draw bar ball just tac the sides where it goes.
Must be an updated item, our old ones had no bushings like this.
Old chains are worn right out.
Just pre-assemble them before installing.
I took a punch and hammer and gave these screws a good hit before removing them.
Taking the brush kit drive side off first.
It's funny how some had to be customized to get screw out.
Using a rubber mallet to line up draw bar for screw holes.
Putting the basket brackets on.
They look great and after installing on the machine most of the play is gone.
HDXD # 1 jumped solenoid out on course to get it started to bring in shop.
Checked all components in the start circuit as per instructions and schematic.
No luck, so I tried a little swapnostics with solenoid with other unit and still no luck, but now both machines had the same issue.
Summers in full swing and grinding needed to be done so I simulated the crossing the solenoid with a switch.
Guys got use to it so Iet it ride till winter service to solve the problem.
Could have just left it but it could have started without depressing clutch first.
In this business I could see this biting me in the a$$ later on at some point.
Guys and gals got use to turning key on till glow plug lite went out and then hit the self-centering toggle switch
Picked up power from hot side of solenoid to switch and back to start wire.
After re trouble shooting everything in the start circuit, I gave Bill a call at Veseys.
The wire harness off the relay on right is for the start circuit. Bill says there should be battery voltage on the yellow wire.
No voltage so double-checking schematic again it shows that the small wire runs of the glow plug yellow wire on the relay next to it in pick. Which showed battery voltage.? After rechecking everything again I decided the wire must be damaged and wondered why it would have happened to both machines at nearly the same time.
Soooooo after pulling that yellow wire out of wire loom I found this!
Yep a fuse tucked under harness that's not in schematic.
That's my go to when looking at one for this type of issue. It threw me of.
Made sense after I found it because I've seen the same set up on other toro equipment. 5410 come to mind. Which also reminded me of the very random blown fuse they used to have.
When my other unit comes in I'm going to clean the starter in case it was dragging a bit and popped the fuse.
This was the original problem machine.
Oh, by the way get yourself one of these power probes, they are amazing.
Where the arrow is I'll mark in a fuse for future reference.
Zip tied the hydraulic line down that the screws are digging in to get it out of the way.
We have 8 tx gator at the shop. going on 8-9 years. This is the second one that has cracked the block .
Some pics of whats invovled for replacement.
Engines removed.
I plug any openings like the carburator to keep debris out.
Yes the bolts are wired tied in pairs to keep crankcase bolts from backing out.
I only have one machine that they did not back out ?
Now I used red thread lock on threads and gasket sealer on both sides of gasket ,torgue to spec.
So far it's been working for us.
The reason their backing out is (I'm assuming ) over loaded carts and guy/gals hammering the throttle when taking off causing vibration from the clutch .
Remove pulse line of fuel pump at crankcase and pump bracket off engine .
Pull the tube off carb to get better access to nuts on carburator.
Remove all the shroud case bolts.
Pull fuel pump, case, and carb off together.
Remove carb studs.
Take a pic of the routing of coil kill wire switch.
Here is why the crankcase is being replaced.Crack goes almost to lifter guides. The last one I did was on the top side just under the head.
Remove coil
Remove flywheel bolt and fan
Pull flywheel off. I used a socket on end of crankshaft so not to ruin the threads
Remove key. I stick it to the magnet on flywheel
Valve cover removed
Loosen off rocker arms, the allen head bolts has to be backed out first.
Take push rods out. I keep them sorted so they go back in same location.
Removing head bolts - only 4 of them
Taking the gasket bushings out of block.
Crankcase vent read remove.
Highly recommend removing it with this tool
Starter bracket studs will have to be removed. There are alot of hardware not on the new crankcase.
I found some nuts to fit studs and double nuting them made quick work of it.
Dont ussually like doing this, but its the old crankcase.
Heating it up to wiggle one of the stuck bushings out.
See that little test plug.
IT DOES NOT COME ON THE NEW PART.
Found out the hard way on the last build when engine oil all pumped out of the engine in 2 seconds .
This does come with new part installed
Remove drain plugs
Use a couple of blockds of wood to keep it level off crankshaft .
Wire ties cut off crankcase bolts
Bolts removed and pull crankcase cover. There are some pry tabs if its stuck on.
Cam alighnment marks.
Cam also drives the oil pump.
Crankshaft timing marks
Carefully pull gears out along with lifters
Information on piston. Take a picture.
Arrow points to reed side
Connecting rod only goes one way to.
This line keeps the cap on the right way and faces crankcase cover.
Remove connecting rod cap bolts
Piston should push up and out
Check removed parts for wear.
Some piston skuffing.
I'll be replacing piston and rings.
If the pistons good I recommend replacing the rings on this job.
More bushings to remove
Nice crack
Remove this cover
Spring then a ball bearing
Use a magnet to get ball out
Pretty simple engine
I'll lay the parts out and clean what needs to be while waiting for parts .
Down to the bare bones
Recycled metal bin
This part does come with the crankcase, I'm just seeing how easy it would be to remove if I had too.
New parts are in.
Only took a few days
Stating of with popping in a new seal
Grease the lip good.
Pop the ball and spring back in for the oil pressure relief
I'm using some blue loctite on this one.
Clean well and check for and nicks or burrs
Use a generious amount of oil when reassembling parts
Crankshafts in
Remove clip to get the wrist pin out old piston
Watch your rod orentation
Some times you have to a socket to get the wrist pin out
Check rod for wear and replce if needed
Install one clip
Make absolutely sure it's in the groove
Install new piston on rod with arrow facing towards reed valve and conneting rod alignment marks facing you and install the other clip
Install new rings
Space end gaps so they are NOT lined up
Ring compressor makes quick work on install
Pop it in from top side after coating cylinder with oil along with piston
Carefully tap it in lining up connenting rod into crankshaft journal
Cylinder was already honed for new install.
Setting your crank and piston rod in this location makes it easy to torque bolts on.
Putting a generious amount of oil everywhere before installing the rest of the gears
Align your marks then rotate crank to get ready to line up marks for crankshaft
Before doing that reinstall the lifters
Check the moving parts and springs before install.
Coat everything with oil
Turn crank till pistons at top dead center
Makes lining up the marks easy
Install head gasket alighment bushings
Oh yes you do not want to forget this part
Red locktite
New oil filter
Both drain plugs installed
Torque specs
Install with thin reed valve first then the plate ( yes it has a bend ) bend faces so it's up, blue locktite screw
If you don't have man hands use a valve spring compressor.
I just put a balled up rag on bench and place head on it, tap spring little with a hammer, push down with fingers and remove the keepers.
Changing valve guid seals
Good way to keep the keepers from flying across the shop
Clean and check valves and seats
Lap in as needed
Ready for install
Head gasket installed dry
Head bolts inside valve cover have rod tabs that need to be alighned correctly to seat down
Torque to spec
I turn them down till they touch and use half to torque amount first to torque in a cross pattern
Ten again at full amount
No not the right location, has to go inside the head bolt keeper
Easy valve adjustment, pistons at TDC already
Adjust with nut then secure it with allen bolt
Double check after adjustment
New rocker cover gasket and install valve cover
Old oil pump
Waiting for the parts
New seal installed in crankcase cover
New pick up screen
Install key in flywheel (tap it in with a hammer ) install flywheel
The fan only goes on one way and these are the things to look for to do it
This tab faces flywheel and goes in notch on crankshaft
Also has these two nubs that go on either side of magnet
Torque nut down to spec. Fan should be flush with flywheel
Installed coil using my business card for gap.
Install all shrouds , carb ( new mounting gaskets ) fuel pump
Just setting the muffler gasket and bolts up till I'm ready for them
Reinstall starter/gen bracket studs. Install brackets in right location.
New oil pump
Install with lots of oil
Make sure the clip is seated in groove
We have major issues with crankcase leaks here and I know a few other nearby courses having the same
I smear a bit of gasket sealer on both sides of gasket
Red loctit on bolts and back of washers ( thats just my issue solving problem idea )
otherwise if you have no issues ....dry gasket torque to spec . JD recomends new bolts
The oil pump has to line up with cam shaft
You will know when its aligned the cover will easily go down tight to crankcase
Torque to spec following diagram in manual ( basically like proper tighting sequence on wheel nuts )
Grease in the new seal will help it go in on the oil fill tube
Skip this step . It's what I have to do here to keep them on. If they vibrate loose they have tension to keep them from backing out.
Attach muffler and ready for install
Engine bay was cleaned while waiting for parts
Dropped in place
Then install all the motor mount bolts lower muffler bolts and top link bolts loose
Snug the top link and lower exhaust bolts first, then I'll tighen the engine mounting bolts.
Got ahead of myself ! Leave exhaust tip off till after belts are installed.
Hooking up linkages to carb and air intake.
New fuel filter and install line on fuel pump
I left the wires on starter gen and flipped it to seat side .
Flip it back and hook up the ground on starter /gen
Also dont forget the ground that goes on 8mm harness bolt
Primary cluth installed and torque to spec
Belts and cover installed
I always remove this mud flap, makes for easier work
