L4200 kubota oil pan replacement

Recently I was pushing back some compost and noticed that the 4 wd was not working . After getting off the tractor to talk to the guys chipping I noticed the tractor was leaking engine oil at a good rate . Being near the shop I put it in the bay for inspection . 

 4 WD spline shaft and sleeves

 After closer inspection I found the front axle tube bearing missing and the bolt holes stripped out . They must have worked their way loose . The tractor was sent out last year for a complete front axle overhaul . I should have rechecked the torque on the bolts to make sure they where in spec . after it was used for a while . The front axle was tilting back and forth causing the pin to shear on the 4 wd sleeve which in turned beat cracks into the oil pan .

The rear 4 bolt ones seemed to be ok . I used the loader bucket to raise the front of tractor and blocked it up with plating and jack stands . To get the oil pan off you will have to drop the axle tube .There are 2 bolts behind it that can't be removed otherwise . I didn't worry about disconnecting the steering linkage . Place a pump floor jack and I used a 6x6 on top and place it in the center of axle tube . Then remove the front wheels . Makes it easier to maneuver without the added weight  .

Remove all the oil pan bolts . Scrape any gasket material off after . I took a visual look at the bottom end , everything looked nice and clean . 

 The gasket has to go on a certain way , There are a couple of oil return areas in the block , so the extra 2 hole have to line up here . I used some sealant on one side to hold the gasket in place . The service manual didn't show the torque or pattern of bolts . As a rule of thumb you start with the center bolts and alternate working your way out to the ends . I torque mine at 25 lbs. Then reassemble in reverse order torque everything down to spec's .I would suggest lock tight on axle tube bearing bolts .If your tractor has the 4 wd then remove the pins in the sleeves and slide them on the splined shaft then slide it into the protective tube . You put the splined shaft in between front axle and transmission . Slide the sleeves onto shafts look through the pin holes to see if your in between the shafts then install a new roll pin on both ends . Slide the tubes over and lock in place with the set screws . 

In my case I had to maneuver the front axle around to drill and re-tap holes for thread inserts . I installed all the front axle tube bearing bolts with red lock tight . Torque to 115 lbs . I plan on checking them in the near future to see if it holds up . Using the jack stand this way I found it fairly easy to line everything back up .

Looks like we need a little more training . Damaged caused by ramming into piles . If used properly in the right gears for the job being done this can easily be avoided . I had some old plow shoe blades for material to repair damage .

Back in cold storage waiting for work . 

Toro 5410 HD DPA click adjuster upgrade

I recently purchased the heavy duty adjusters to try.I'm finding that the bedbar wears more on the ends and think the cause is the bedbar bending and flexing while mowing  . Although they cut well I'm hoping it will keep the light contact area be more constant during mowing . This kit may not be needed for some course . Our course provides some mowing challenges .Plus on a couple of ( healthy )fairways we see the light 5 line pattern . We are getting another set of groomers for the other fairway machine and with a little more aggressive setting and these adjusters we should be getting better results .

 Here is the kit Number . The Kit will do one SET of adjuster per reel .

 The kit is very similar to the original design . The click adjusters are nyloced in place with bigger wave washer pack . The springs on the backside of the bedknive are heavy duty .

  A very good set of instructions comes with the kit . The shield doesn't have to be removed , I'm just getting ready to grind and just cleaning the grass shield . Back the click adjuster off a good half turn and remove springs , washers and nyloc nut .

Remove bedbar . 

 Then snap ring adjuster wave washer,bushings .

 Clean inside area well with a small brush or bore brush .

 Clean the outside area where the recess area is for the bushings.

 The bushing has a notch to line up .

 There is a mark to help you line it up . It's a little finicky but once lined up you can push it in with your thumb .

 While it's all apart it's a good time to

 drill 7/32 hole

 tap for a 1/4 - 28 thread

 Put a little loctite on and install a grease nipple in this area .

This is what the guys on the tech sites have come up with for the seizing adjuster problem in some areas . I cleaned mine out last season and still had corrosion build up issues . Hopefully this will solve the problem .  

 Install the new wave washer and click adjuster . Use lots of anti seize . Put the thin washer and nyloc on the other end . Then grease.

 Torque to 20 ft. lbs . Below is a pick with the rest of the parts  installed . Reassemble bedknive and adjust .


The newer Toro machines already come with the up grade .The grease nipple on the adjuster have worked out well .