Having to remove this shield for repairs you notice a lot of trapped grass in this area .
Lots going on in here to get seized up or rusted away . Posted on Twitter and seen this fab job done on one . This is my take on it .
I used 3.5" door hinges and knocked the pin out to flip one end
Makes for the hinge to sit better on install
Just lay hinge flat where you want it . I left the screws in plate till after installing .Drilling a starter hole made for a clean spot weld with mig welder
Turned out great
Remove the plate screws and a little paint and your done .
Pretty easy and great daily access to cleaning and servicing now .
This is a must do . machines are coming in cleaner .
Always wanted to try grinding a bedbar. A few weeks ago, an opportunity presented itself. Had a customer bedbar in poor shape and wound up saving the bedbar. After talking to @MikeRollinsSIP about how their system works we figured out what I wanted to do for my set up. Also @jaydotseedot explained to me about these 123 blocks which made this set up so much easier.
New tools. I had a dial gauge, but the digital was easier to zero out for reference.
Originally going to do this after next top dressing but the bedknives wouldn't let me lol.
Clean the bedbar surface well after removing bedknife.
The video above shows six inches of space under the bedbar on levelling plate .
Stacking the 123 blocks on end and putting bedbar on top I'm able to take readings.
Was interesting to see how of they were. All three bedbars were different too.
Measuring at the pivot bolts I'm able to measure distance difference on each end. @Canadian79 (these are all twitter handles) suggested just laying the bar flat on leveling table and measure pivot bolts from top which make total sense. But I found it cool to see how wonky these bars are lol .
This first one I did was .32 mm off.
No to mount bedbar on grinder I had to place 2 nuts here. They must be tall enough to tip bar over enough for a full surface grind.
Secure it on one of the nutted areas with a large C clamp.
Scratch bedbar first like you would setting up a new bedknife to find the closest point to center. Then move stone back so it's not touching. Hook up dial indicator and zero both ends the best you can. On the high side I took off halve of the .32mm
A few videos. The JRM stone surprisingly made quick work of it. Allow double your usual grind time to do this. It's A intime grind for me anyway. We will see how they are next bedknife change.
First attempt went very well.
Second bar is the one that had a big gap. Almost done grinding but you can reely see it.
All done,clean up threads and lube before putting on new bedbar.
Things I noticed, bedknife sat flat to bar, also when flipping from top face to front face there was little adjustment difference. Yes, I had to move stone back to clear for flipping but setting up ends there was little to do.
Last bar looks like it had a little twist on one end.
After installing bedbar with new knife I rechecked squaring to front rollers. All mine, were good.
So excited to try it out tomorrow
I forgot the seat made a new home on one of the tractors. lol
So I switched it to the other unit. Going out tomorrow and interested to see if there is a difference from the tech vision. We always see something.
I was planning on only doing this to the green's units, but we have at least thirty reels, and I'd say only one sets up easily from top grind to front face.
After tomorrow's trial will see about picking away at the rest of them when bedknives are do for replacement.
They mowed 12 to 6 today. Nice and flat no weird lines. Once they dried wheel marks are not noticeable at all.
Bents looken great at .120"
Going to be worth the trouble to do the other unit .
Customer brought it in for repair. Hit a sprinkler head so hard it sheard 4 bedknife screws.
I tried penetrating oil, heat, drilling, easy outs to no avail.
I've tried welding nuts on broken studs with some success, so I gave it a go on these screws. They were a little beat up and in the holes a way.
To my surprise they all came out. The bedbar took a beating too. I decided to go ahead and try leveling or truing it up on my grinder (Bernhard 3000MC anglemaster).
Turned out better than expected, saving the bedbar .
cleaning out the threads before mounting bedknife.
Set up very well and done.
I originally thought the bedbar was needing replacement and decided to experiment with it at upping some skills. I wound up saving the bar and customer some $$$
I've been chasing down a backfiring issue for weeks last season. I noticed had that I had not blogged about it.
Found only a few pictures on my phone.
This machine had lost the exhaust right at the head once. Originally thought maybe A burnt valve.
Checked everything in service CD. Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, made sure throttle valve closed all the way. Even pull carb and cleaned up and check float setting. Lastly, I replaced the coil figuring it was breaking down once it was hot.
It would only backfire after 5 or 10 minutes and on long runs downhill then letting off on throttle.
Nothing worked, problem just remained the same no matter what I did.
So I decided to pull the engine and removed the head to see if there was a burnt valve.
To my surprise everything looked great.
I assumed the engine was basically as the club Car until I seen this reed valve. Following where the passages went it seem to be some sort of PVC system. Exits out by the valves. Or could also be what gives the fuel pump its pulse.
The reed valve looked damaged so decided to replace it and backing plate.
Green circle above shows where it's located.
Side view of reed valve. Used a bit of red loc-tight and torqued to spec and made sure it was over the port.
After reassembling and adjusting valves etc. Surprisingly has never backfired since.
It was a real head scratcher and thought to post it incase it's one of those one-off issues that come across once in a lifetime.
We are have an issue with the inner tie rods bending . We get a couple of them bent during the season . Not sure what causes this but we do have paved cart paths coupled with the tight turning radius might have something to do with it ?
@jaydotseedot on Twitter suggest tie rod sleeves .Never heard of them before . Apparently used for lifted trucks with bigger tires .
Tie rods are bending up like pretzel's on the threaded area . Toro only sells the complete assembly $$$.$$
So I've found them at local car parts store from 15$ to 75$ It is an ES-3488 . They are slightly shorter but do work .
They tend to top dress in the evening .Trying to avoid issues when I'm not around . We have 3 HDXD units here . all three have had the same issues . If it works on the top dresser I may do the rest next winter . Or order another kit to put in parts room .
As per usual take seats shifting knob lever too off and remove seat cab . Pretty use to it now comes apart fairly quickly
Take cotter pin out , remove outer tie rod nut . I use a 5 pound maul and give it a good smack on knuckle . Remove outer tie rod and nut . Mark nut on threads on side facing in towards center of machine .Count the threads. That will get you close enough .
If its an old tie rod clean it off well including the threads . I put a dab of grease inside sleeve to coat it . Thread it on to the counted thread area. Install outer tie rod and reassemble .Snug sleeve and outer tie rod tight . Was very easy to do . On this side you could tell tie rod had a little bend already . Brand new mid summer .
This side threaded on easily . Seems the damage mostly happens on passenger side .
Part of being a golf equipment mechanic , you have to figure out a better way to solve equipment reoccurring issues on your course .
Update later on too how it did .
Wound up doing them all.
Great addition no more issues.
Only had one issue since but involved an off season emergency stop.
Even then the tie rod didn’t snap or bend but lower A arm did.
There are a few of us with a reoccurring pump and or head failures . I'll try to be fair in this post Toro did replace most of our pumps ,heads etc. after the fact .Even went as far as asking one of their guys vacationing up here to pop in and check out our SET UP and operation ... talking to spray tech and salesman was also there . He wanted all the pumps and heads sent back and shipped us this last pump.
It was looking pretty good almost 600 hours but after pulling a few heads I could see the issue is not going to go away . Repairing out of pocket to have it fail every year or bye yearly doesn't make sense . Parts for these pumps are very expensive . For the price of 4 hardened heads we could go a different option and install a new aftermarket system .
This was the last pump we received under 600 hours .Lasted 3 times longer than some of them .
Still getting a lot of scaling
They get very thin in this area .
We have a pre mixing tank prior to going into our sprayer . Yes its flushed out and tank cleaner is used occasionally during the season .
I use to get great feed back from service tech or salesman or sometimes Toro but in this case there was zero feed back about our issue or what possibly could be going on .
So now we have to move on from throwing $$$$.$$ at an unresolved problem .
And I'll leave it there
Going through Halifax Seed Turf we purchased ALLTURF precision TECHNOLGIES Hypro D115 3 diaphragm pump .
A little walk around and un boxed parts for retro fit kit specific to the Toro 5800 change over .
My kit included the common items needed for this model . Ours machine has a few bells and whistles so I need an additional item . Frank and Wray where 100% engaged on any questions I had and replied promptly to resolve them .Made the retro fit stress free .
Came in one little package .Frank and also Callum both sent me PDF files for me to look over before arrival . For the guys that do sprayers all the time the instructions are pretty good . For the rest of us keep reading my blog . Very surprised at speed of delivery too.
Getting these pins in where a treat. No press here for that set up . I put that part on the horn of my anvil and started one of the roll pins .
Need to support the end . Didn't want to bend anything up .
This set up worked great . I was able to drive them in flush .
I'm using blue Loctite for vibration . Looked up some torque specs for bolt ( none in manual ) I went with 54 ft.lbs . 3 shiny or chrome plated ones ,flat washer and lock washer attach the 1" shaft.
If you pull up on torque wrench by pipe wrench they torque up great .
Before attaching mount clean these threads out . That way you won't have to fight with it . It's fairly tight spot
The longer one goes in the rear mount you just cleaned out
Leave the front two bolts loose till rear gets started in well . Gives you a little wiggle room . Tolerance after assembled is snug .
Pic of rear mount again .
Done ready for install .
Now onto hoses and hose questions . Instructions doesn't mention this white hose location . I'll get back to that later .
Remove suction hose from top back of tank . The one the guys are always removing to clean screens .Save the red connection part it's being reused .
Remove all hoses in instructions . It was pretty straight forward .
I may reinstall my manifold filter to protect and avoid having individual nozzle screens . Worst case scenario I could just leave screen out if there is any issues .
Drilling 1 5/8" hole . One time deal here . Check the underside too before drilling . You need it to be a flat surface on both sides. The manual had a great trick off placing the tank fill screen inside to catch the debris.
Perfect location for ours .
Didn't realize how thick they are .
This is why I asked you to keep following along . Upside down !!lol I was told . Goes the other way and the 90 elbow goes inside the tank along with the clear tubing . Instructions are lacking here for us guys that don't work on sprayer everyday . Plus it's a different system install . The old OEM pressure relief has been removed .
Softening the hose in a bath of hot water makes them slide on easy . This is the hose that goes inside the tank where the cut out was made .
The missing link lol .I think a thread / spigot male was sent by mistake . Not a big deal .
Attach relief valve parts as per manual.
Missing the key too . The OEM will not work on pump side .has to be square stock .
My shop has a fair amount of hardware . Key stock was in stock
Reusing the Toro OEM coupler . Attach it to pump drive . Using a bungie to hold drive in place .
Test fit .
Heights good with provided shims . Slide onto coupler easily.
OEM hole will have to be re-drilled . I transferred edges of pump bracket to base with a white marker pen .
Easiest way I found to make a template.
Cut out
Use special Bobs Shop tape . Nothing else works ,
Drill out in 3 drill bit size steps .
Another little set back . Spacer bracket holes don't line up either . I used a step drill bit and widened the holes out till it fit . It's just a spacer .
Final fitting . Good to go .
Pump is in .
Copper anti seize the coupler before final assembly and tighten bolts . I do the ones on the key first.
Install the guard . Had to tweak it out a bit . Was pretty close to rubbing .
Walk around video .
This one is part of the old relief valve system and can be capped . Their sending one out soon .
Time to attach hoses up .
Softening the big suction hose .
I you twist it clockwise as viewed in pick it will go on easily . The big wrap coils release tension this way .
Suction hose is on . Only 5 points of possible suction leaks . OEM I counted 15 .
Black hose is pretty soft . Join from valve bank to other side of pump. Leave enough slack to splice the T in .
I splice mine directly over this valve .
Attach another piece of hose to run up to top of tank where relief valve will be mounted on pressure side instead of OEM suction side .
The 90 goes inside tank on clear hose .I went and got he missing male treaded coupler to put relief valve on here . Black hose from T connects to it .
Looks great . Like have the extra room around pump area .
Shorten up the green hose a bit and still my pre manifold filter
Stacked a couple of threaded nipples an installed relief valve .Also picked up a gauge for adjustment later
Just received the one piece suction tube. Toro #121-5003
It should eliminate 7 more points that air could possible get in on suction side
Fits right on OEM screen assembly
Goes right into drain at bottom of tank .
Just waiting on flow valve kit and it will be finished .
95% done .
I'll be updating later on setting up relief valve and how its going for the first season .
flow valve kit installed
Topping up back pressure diaphragm before first start up .
Measuring 100 gallons to test flow manager reading
You can laugh but I've dump and lost track do to other things that come up in this business . My dump tracker.
Tried to set up pressure relief as per instruction . Had a few problems with spiking pressure etc. when agitation or nozzle pressure dropping out when activated . So Halifax Seed Turf wanted to drop in a see it running . Explained what was going on and between us (Mostly Callum ) figured it out . Very similar to JD sprayer set up .
We had to set the agitation at a desired setting and also the boom sprayer pressure . Then do the set up in instructions . This agitation valve cannot be moved after setting or it will throw every thing out of whack . So we removed the handle ,
Capped it
Then taped it to prevent slight vibration from moving it . Or being tampered with accidentally .
Checking for individual boom control pressure . These controls don't need tampering with .
The guys went out and used the rate preset and the pro controller takes care of boom or multi boom pressure . keeps them the same . Assistant (Joel) says its working great now . Phew !!!
Great agitation and nozzle pressure
Just calibrate the rest in the spring and we will be good to go .
Looking good so far .
Post an update next winter when I install a kit in and check the pump over .
This is a long blog but with limited skills and my blog very easy install .
