Adjusting front and top face from pivot bolts (Bernhard)

Recently view a you tube video from Trent Manning about measuring from bedbar pivot bolts.

Always wanted to do the same but couldn't figure out an easy way to do it.

This is my version I came up with for my grinder type.

Amazon linear digital gauge.

Not to expensive 50$ Can + -

I'll be using to old mounts for what looks like stone sharpener.

Installed 10 mm bolts.

 

Drilled out holes in lol near center of bedbar pivot bolts.

Mount to bedbar and then use the holders from grinder.

Gives an accurate area to measure from.

Had a piece of aluminum plate and cut a couple of slices in it to mount gauge.

Test fitting it to a piece of 3/8 rod I had around the shop.

Installed rod then attach plate to it.

It can also adjust in and out If I needed to. 

Like this.

Turned out pretty good.

Brand new bedknive I had ground as per grinding instruction to find that this on was of by less than a hair.

Checking to see if by moving it back and forth on rail If the readings stay consistent and they do. 

This bracket that came with gauge I just flattened out to attach to the end so I can adjust top or front face by just tipping bracket to the side a bit.

Top face 

The add bracket stays on to catch the bedbar pivot bolt in either top or front face grinding 

Front ... notice the bracket is tipped to right to catch the pivot bolt.

A couple of videos

So now when my leading edge is worn back on top dress days and touching both ends for set up leaves it a bit off I'll be able to set them all up the same and back to the correct front face. 

Should be a game changer in this situation for sure 

Tine holder spiker I should have had a patten

Would have been nice to get a little royalty.

Many times, I've seen my ideas and other techs ideas just taken and profited on.  

Then tine rack was not my idea, but I've made these many years ago and 4 years ago made it use the actual tine block with heavy rod stock.

2015 Club Car President Lithium ion battery conversion .....wow.

Trying out a lithium-ion battery conversion on one of the Club cars.

Due to lack of Maintenace at the cart barn we have been going through many batteries.

There has to be a better way.

In the past Lithium-ion was out of the question ...that and having to buy a charger wasn't a viable idea.

Seen a conversion kit on - line that battery Advancement is getting into. 

Emailed for more info and Jim got back to me right away.

Once the price point was figured out and approval from the club, we went ahead with a test purchase. 

Excluding shipping and re-program download it was nearly the same as the lead acid batteries.

No brainer for me.

No issues dealing with Battery Advancement in Calgary they are on the ball and helpful.

This little guy has the same power as 6 lead acid batteries.

I was shocked, for some reason thought there were going to be 3 of them.

Decided on this location to keep it centered/passenger side.

The carts going to be 350 pounds lighter too now. 

No brackets but I'm thinking of reusing this hold down.

The hardest part for me was to get the program on a blank USB.

I'm ok but not great with computer stuff lol.

Going to be a lot of room left over.

I'm thinking of installing the charger inside here too.

Update later after install. 

Figuring out how to support the other end of bracket.

Extended the ground with the short left-over wiring. 

Visage still working the same, even registered the battery %.

re programing eric charger.

Downloaded the app so I can see that the charger was working.

Using some 2x4 that was kicking around I made a support for hold down. 

Notched out for bracket to sit in.

Nicely wedged in battery box.

It's not going to move.

Solid

You don't need to use an App, you can check it here on the battery if you like.

Drove the entire 18 hole nonstop and its 3C out here.

Pretty impressed.

light on the turns and wheel might spin a little.

 

 

Maredo speed core GT230 bearing rebuild.

Well used here.

Great for a little relief in the summer.

Solids are fast an easy.

.

Throwing down the sand and then running equipment through it in my opining doesn't make any sense other than creating more work for techs. 

Sure, it is visually more appealing.

The aerating equipment and tines get extra wear.  

As far as getting more sand in the holes I'd say it's pretty debatable.

Although we do have 3 full seasons on them and have had lots of use.

Reely like the little trollies for them. 

First thing to remove.

Then weights.

Reel motor plates.

Plates are interlocking with notches, so they only go back one way.

Lay the parts out in the order removed.

Remove these 3 bearing bolts on both ends.

Next 3 pairs of these bolts.

Light tap and it should slide out easily.

I laid it in front like this.

Remove the drive coupler (in this case), You can take them off either end but I prefer to take them all off on the same side.

Just 3 bolts and nuts.

circlip will release the back half off nut.

A couple of wrenches to remove this nut.

Slide this bearing off and lay all the bits out in order.

The nut holding pinching all the tine holder to shaft I managed to get off this way, Blue Loctite was on this nut.

Spacer bushing slide off. 

Put mine in front of frame as I rebuilt them.

Tines are timed so It's very important to mark these as their rebuilt.

They are already marked but I'm going to mark mine as I go. 

Like this, mark them where that Allan bolt is near shaft.

Did mine one at a time so it had time to dry.

Removed these three brackets, pay attention they only go on one way. There is a difference. 

All these washers were used on inside bearing races, some had 2 most had 1.

I'm thinking they are spacers or shims to keep bearings lined up for better rotation and less wear.

All the bearings by my thumb (upper one) were worn out.

Pay attention to tine orientation and also the bearing plates.

If you put them back wrong, you may make a lot more work for yourself never mind the damage they will do.

Remove the 2 nuts holding tine block on.

Set everything down the way it comes off.

This notch face down on tabletop before assembling on shaft.

Some spray 9 and water made quick cleanup work.

Remove Allan head bolts and nuts. 

The one my middle finger is pointing at is the timing one that need to be facing the mark you made.

Remove the remaining 4 bolts and nuts along with the one bolt holding the separate bearing section.

Set the bearing a side as a separate rebuild piece. 

Lay parts out for later.

After doing a few I wound up tearing down to this point then washing parts off.

A few pics of bolt removal below.

Split it in half to expose the bearing and outer race holders.

Think mechano set seems everything interlocks one way.

See how everything is notched.

Outer race holders are the same, they just pull apart.

If you have some bad wear on side plates for some reason you could just flip the plates to the other side. 

Here is the part you're looking for.

Give the bearing a good smack on the top edge and the side plate should pop of one side and then tap the other out.

Don't worry about damage to the bearing it's most likely toast.

Out of 3 heads (18 bearings) 3 were good. 

Clean the side plates before assembling into a new bearing.

I worked on one half and started with installing tine mounting plate.

Then the outer race framing, be sure to get them in the holes they are tight. 

Like so.

Installing bearing side plates.

Allan head bolt was snugged down and made sure both plates where flush on bearing, may need a little tap.

Then back off nut a good turn, makes installing back on shaft a lot easier. You will have to snug it back up once its slid-on shaft.

Pops back in pretty easily.

I installed one bolt here by my thumb to help hold things together till rest get installed.

Installed the other Allen head bolt.

I don't think it makes a difference, but they had the bolts and nuts all facing the same way, so I did the same.

Make sure everything is in its place before tightening up.

Should all sit flush to bearings. 

Remove the bolts that hold the bearings in place.

I replaced all the bearings and kept any good ones for a backup in case I needed them.

Also, this bearing was listed wrong in my parts book. IT IS A 6001 2RS bearing. 

Not a reel tight fit, this worked great with an inverted socket.

All the bits back together.

VERY IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THIS NOTCH.

This is what happens on bearing failure.

Did any repairs as I assembled. 

And repeat 5 more times.

I left the finished on in its proper orientation.

Once I got to the last 2, I slid the rebuilt ones on lining up the marks to the Allan head bolts and then rebuilt the last 2 sections.  

Reassemble in reverse order now.

Some pointers on a few things to look for below.

Remember to tighten these back up after they are installed on shaft.

Washer bearing washer and then 3 spacer washers Loctite last nut.

Slide back section of drive on nut.

I feel inside circlip, the sharp side faces out.

Yeah, it sometimes makes a huge difference checking this.

Old GK reels were bad for them falling out.

Installing the reel motor drive cog.

Install with curve section facing down.

Important to install spacer washer on bearing side to keep them from binding, also the frame mounting end has slotted holes to keep them aligned.

Replace this tine bumper or just flip it to other side will also work.

A few spun on me so I just slotted the bolt head to get them off.

Ready now for tine assembly install.

Try to keep the brackets upside. 

They may get fetched up and not be able to position them where they go after install.

I stuck a bolt in this one so it wouldn't jamb on lift frame bracket nuts.

Slotted holes to keep bearings running true.

And done.

After you do one it's pretty easy.