Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Cat walk build for Toro Pro Pass 200

Nice little addition . This cat walk was easy to build and will save the rear fenders from getting bent and guys hanging of the side trying to clear/clean or check hopper . 

material used 1.5"x2.5" - 1/8" tube stock cut  3 lengths at 20".Slide them in position and mark holes for pins after you get it set up in the next step . 

I'm using 1.5 " -1/8" angle for rails 2 x 56" . Mark just the inside one so you can flip it over to weld . Outside piece weld in place over hanging tube stock . Line up cat walk so it is just inside fender . Mark the holes for pins now .  

Clamp and ready to tack weld . 

Made a simple step with stock left over. 

Disconnect battery before welding !

After tack weld ,remove and weld up joints . Step was around 8" riser .

 Remove and flip over to measure for mesh top .

Went with 1/2" mesh to let the sand go through and better foot traction .


Test fit for the last time . Goes on easily.

Cleaning it up for 

Primer and


And done .

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Toro HDX D Workman Dump box Mod .

Well my long term memory works well but I couldn't tell where I just set my coffee though lol.  A while back I seen this build on one of the tech sites .  Had a hunch that it was Chad Braun from Prestwick golf club . With all the social media sites out there you get to know other techs fairly well . Sent Chad mail through twitter and was right in the hunch, I didn't realize it was back in 2009 . 
  The problem where having are loads going between dump bed and ROP. Gravel or surge is the worst . The over spillage winds up on the hydraulic lines that lay in a tray under the dump bed . Many times gravel gets wedged in between lines . 

The dump beds had some rigorous use this fall . That's what their built to do and they do it well . I'll have to build the modification on the box .

Removing this shield makes the job easy .

Using a piece of 1.5" angle 1/8 th thick . Cut one side of angle to hug the inside of box . I left 12 " for the side pieces . 

Clamp this first piece down . 

When welding on equipment disconnect the battery cables . Some modern equipment have delicate electronics that could get shorted out costing $$$,

Next I welded up 8 ..11" 1" angle together to make 4 upright pieces . Tack them in place in the same area as the box post holders ( for ecstatics )and then add the top rail .

The box extender can be pulled off later to weld secure .

A few more pics at different angles

You can mock up the side rail with the measuring tape to get an idea of the length needed . Mine where 20"    Notch out and bend

tack these in place 

Looking good fairly easy project so far 

Off the Workman now and cutting diamond plate 1/8 " to fit openings 

All ready for 


and paint.

and done . 

Drill out for 4 bolts in the front and one on each side . Looks great

I'm thinking the the addition will help keep the front of the box from getting bent up . 

Going to add this heavy rubber matt to keep debris out . 

The wire tailgate latches didn't last and when it lets go it will take out the tail lights . Both of them on one machine . Chain will take the abuse that these machines can handle .

Thanks again Chad . Great idea and build .

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Toro MH 400 belt replacement

Our new material handler developed a tear . I did a temporary stitch job to make it last till a new belt came . Surprisingly it lasted a few weeks getting the remaining fall work and new tee decks near completion . Great machine and saved the crew loads of man hours .
Yes it is a big job to change since the belt comes as one complete piece . 
They can be taken somewhere to get a joint installed saving on disassembling the machine .    

One of the guys cleaned it all up for me . 

Originally I was going to lift it out as per instruction using the shop over head beam . 
After much thinking and planning I decided to go a different route . Same route the guys at Veseys used a few years back . 

Disassemble all the hardware in rear of hopper . I also flipped the tailgate up .

Front adjusters ...bearing case slides in grooves .

Hydraulic driven chain . Pump can just stay on .

These bearing collars lock bearing to shaft . They actually turn on bearing and set screw holds it in place .

Chain tensioner removed .

Lots of torque here .The idler gear is actually pushed down and held in place with an Allan head set screw . You will need to heat it up to get it to turn . ( left in picture )

Remove the driven gear . This machine is new an older model will need a puller .

Removed the collar on bearings and slide them off the drive roller shaft . The drive rollers are pretty heavy . ON REASSEMBLY THE LEFT SIDE (direction of travel )THE BOLTS NEED TO BE INSTALLED BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE DRIVE ROLLER. If you forget will have to come back out to install them . 

Because I am sliding the roller tray out the back the rear roller and brackets had to be removed .The large nut on the left was removed ..the one on the right I moved over to pinch the centre one in place . That way I'm not changing the factory setting . 

Front was the same removed adjusters trying to keep the original setting on both sides . The front is awkward to work from but managed to loosen everything off .

Bearing housing are grooved and slide in the track the point where it drops out  I slid the shaft off one end to slide the bearing out the rest of the way . Reinstalling the the bracket made for a good resting area for the end of the shaft so you can get the other side apart. This roller is also very heavy . 

The fenders make good shelves for parts . 

I like to install things back the same way so marking one end of shaft with an R or L for reference . 

Remove all the rubber shields and plates on side and front . The extra room will be needed for the belt to fold up on top . 

Front panel . On reassembly you will need to re silicon to help keep sand / material out .  

A good thing about a scissor lift is that they are mobile . I get a chuckle now because originally I didn't know what I was going to use it for . Use it everyday . Sliding it over I could raise it and push it in under the rear section to pick up the end of the roller tray . 

24 bolts later and it's ready to drag out . 

Both my magnetic trays are loaded up with nuts and bolts . 

the roller just pop out easily . Wrapping a strap around the frame I was able to grab a hold and walk backwards on the scissor lift . Actually drug back easily .  

and out . 

 The roll top from Lawsons came in pretty handy to hold tools . 

 Remove the remaining rollers . No tools just lift up and out . 

Directional arrow faces rear of machine . 

Flip the roller tray on end .

I was just able to muscle the belt over the frame and flip back down onto scissor lift . Scissor lift was on the floor for belt install . Slide the rollers back in under the belt 

Lining everything up .

Right side panel floats and I was able to put a piece of re-bar in to spread the opening a couple inches wider .  

Pushed it in as far I could almost half way .Using straps I was able to get it the rest of the way fairly easy . 

Lining up the holes for bolts to go back in . Going to the back end first I dropped the scissor lift and placed a 6x6 under the roller tray frame .This way I'm able to raise and lower one end to get it started . An alignment tool to push in a bolt hole help greatly . 

Loosely tighten 2 bolts and moved to the front . To raise the front I move the strap to the top centre .

Perfect !! the worse is over .

Getting ready to install rear drive roller .

Man power 1 about 5.5 to 6 hours into it now  , Might need a guy tomorrow to shove the bolts through and hold for the rubber shields , 

Getting ready to install the front roller .Clean everything up well . I set one bearing in place and started the adjuster to hold it in place .

Slide the roller on belt . tapping the bearing casing a bit to get the angle needed to start the shaft in the bearing .  

Leaving these plates in place gave the roller shaft a place to sit

Now I was ready to put bearing on and raise shaft up to slide in place .

Straighten the belt out before adjusting

Keep them roughly even . Later on will run the belt for final adjustments .

Greased all the bearings etc. 

Putting duct tape over the bolts made easy to installation the nuts by yourself .

End panel next.

All done ....looks great .

With good planning it wasn't as huge a job I had thought it would be .

P.S. This is a new machine and it came apart very easily . If it was 20 years old I would have replaced all 4 bearings and used the cutting torch to cut off any troublesome bolts  to speed things up .