This problem I have heard talk about on a few forum sites. There are a few of these Toro style machines that are confusing to get a park brake buzzer installed on them. Of course, guys will drive off leaving them on and wearing out brakes. Yes, you could adjust the brake so it will stall the machine, but you wouldn't be able to pull the handle up and stretch the cable prematurely. I have occasionally done the same thing, so I can't just blame the staff or training for it. Waiting for parts for the sprayer so I decided to tackle this issue. I did lay out parts switches and connections hooked up to a battery for a test run of what I wanted to do.
Put a Club Car micro switch here to activate the alarm when the handle is pulled up or left on.
Going to use a truck reverse buzzer later. Just trying out different locations. I'll install one under the seat on the right middle by the frame.
Ok now comes the thinking part. What switch I was going to tie into? The best option was to use the neutral interlock switch which is activated by pressing the brake pedal. My problem now is that it is only a 2-amp circuit and I'm going to need a bigger circuit to run for the buzzer etc.
The best way to get more amps was to use a relay. I'm using the one below. Just a common 4 pin one. #30 is direct battery power fused with a 10-amp fuse. Should be enough for what I need and won't burn out the CC micro switch since they have a 10-amp circuit. #85 and #86 cut or splice into the wires going to the neutral interlock switch. I cut mine closer to the relay panel before the harness connection. It shouldn't matter which one they go on. If the relay has a diode or there is a diode in the circuit, then reverse them. #87 takes the 10-amp power to the micro switch. What happens is the magnetic coil between 85 and 86 gets energized when the foot brake switch gets activated. That triggers the points to close connecting battery power up 87. That way you won't blow the 2-amp fuse.
The best way to get more amps was to use a relay. I'm using the one below. Just a common 4 pin one. #30 is direct battery power fused with a 10-amp fuse. Should be enough for what I need and won't burn out the CC micro switch since they have a 10-amp circuit. #85 and #86 cut or splice into the wires going to the neutral interlock switch. I cut mine closer to the relay panel before the harness connection. It shouldn't matter which one they go on. If the relay has a diode or there is a diode in the circuit, then reverse them. #87 takes the 10-amp power to the micro switch. What happens is the magnetic coil between 85 and 86 gets energized when the foot brake switch gets activated. That triggers the points to close connecting battery power up 87. That way you won't blow the 2-amp fuse.
Running wire to # 30 on relay.
Run a wire from micro switch to #87 of relay. Run another wire to buzzer and to ground from buzzer. If it works in reverse, then switch wires on micro switch.
Cut or splice in wires to 85 and 86 from neutral solenoid switch. I chose to cut and put them together on one end of butt connector. Do one line at a time so they don't get mixed up.
Mount relay with the rest of them.
Wires hooked to micro switch.
A few more shots of wire connections
Use heat shrink covers on connections. The butt connectors came with heat shrink built in.
Picture of neutral lock solenoid.
Great tools plug the clips on positive and negative battery terminals.
Then you can probe around and see what is negative and positive. green is negative.
Red positive. Some wires will show green till a switch is activated then turns red .
Great for checking grounds.
Fantastic crimping tool. Perfect crimp every time.
Cleaning up wiring cutting them to size and split wire loom them to give it a factory install look.
A few more pics below.
\Notice the battery location. Much better here.
After zip tying everything up I rechecked to see if it was working and to my surprise it did not. Found a broken ground wire and repaired it.
Waiting for my truck type reverse buzzer to arrive.
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