Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Toro 5410 reel motor rebuild

While grinding reels I noticed grease oozing out of one . On closer inspection it looked unusually wet

I knew which reel it was on machine because they are pre-marked before removal . The reel motor in question was cleaned off well and left hanging . Next day you could see the dyed oil leaking out . 

Easier to remount reel motor to remove hoses .

Elevating the lines will keep them from leaking out hydraulic fluid or you can cap them off.

Cap off fittings before cleaning

A little ZEP and small brushes did a great job .

Instructions say to mark a line across the top

Empty out the hydraulic oil .Shop service manual available on Toro site . Read over the directions before starting .

Put in vise just tight enough to loosen of bolts

Kit from Toro . Most of the time it's just the shaft seal that is gone . I'll take mine apart and check for wear .1900 hrs on this one .

Saving some packing material from deliveries makes a nice clean foam surface to lay out the parts

Remove all the seals . I'll leave one section on gears to keep them in their positions.

Pre lube seals with vasaline ( not something I carry in the shop )but pipe lube works great to .

Install new seals the section ones where a bit hard to get in and have to be almost flush . Otherwise spline will not turn . I also wrapped the sharp splines with Teflon tape to protect the seal when in stalling end caps .

Tighten hand tight and torque to spec in a criss x cross manner a little at a time till you reach 11 to 15 ft.lbs, Re-install on mower and run ..check for leaks . The instructions are great and fairly easy to do .

Hydraulic line making

We purchased a kit from Lawsons a few season ago . A bit of a learning curve for myself and sales man  but have it all figured out now and can make hoses for our equipment on the course saving on down time making trips to hydro shops . With the aging equipment  it's time to keep a closer eye on  hydraulic lines . I notice a few that needed replacing during  our winter maintenance program . Most companies will state to replace any moving hoses every 2 years . I'll replace ours as needed during regular service checks . Replacing every moving hose for all our equipment would put a big strain on my budget .

There is a lot of information you need to gather before building your hose .

Today I'm replacing a few lift cylinder hose on the older fairway unit .Cut the hose to size roughly including the crimp fitting . Can be cut with a chop saw or cut off wheel . Blow debris out afterwards You can get special plugs to clean the inside of hose . I'm using a higher quality hose than OEM. 

Some of them have a lot of corrosion on the steel line. Remove the hose for measurements etc. This hose is a #4 or 1/4 ". Hose come in various sizes .Always use the same size hose . I carry #4,#6 (3/8),#8(1/2)and #10 (3/4) hoses .

Fittings can be confusing . They come in all shapes ,styles and sizes . This is the Z type  . Inside tube has to match the hose ( 1/4 "this time )The attaching end has to match for size and thread . You can get many variations that at a quick glance look similar .

Lawsons set me up with a chart specific to my needs eliminating everything else .

Spacer ring ...,determines how much of a crimp needed . In chart refers 2 positions determine by the flat side UP or DOWN.

The Collet being used for this hose . Every hose type ..fitting style ...etc will have different collets and spacers .

Presses also come in many shapes and sizes . Some are hand pumped or electric /hydraulic.

Lube everything before using to help prevent it from sticking .

Before putting the hose on measure it beside the fitting and mark the hose . When you slide it onto the fitting it should go to the mark . Some of the larger hoses you may have to work them on .

Fitting in the collet . The line on the fitting should be roughly the same level as the top of the collet. Hold up on the hose enough to keep it in the fitting

Slide spacer ring on top before crimping . In this case it calls for flat side up .

Opposite side shows the relief to get the proper crimp.

Slide press ram in place and pump

Till plates touch. I like to leave it in that position for a good 10 seconds .

Every hose type fitting has a crimp spec . Always check to make sure it did crimp all the way .

Pressing on the short 90

 Put the protective wrap back on before pressing on the second fitting . Some people think this wrap is not important's there to protect the operator first then then hose . If you don't believe that then sit on a Toro groundmaster sidewinder and look to your right .

New and old line . Only takes 5 to 10 minutes each once your use to it .

Hydraulic oil Dye

There are many dyes available for hydraulic oil .I have used Toro for years . 

This tiny bottle will turn 20 liters of oil red .

Here is what it looks like in my measuring container . A lot of people like the dye and think it's for seeing it on the turf quicker if a leak happens . My experience is most operators tend to not notice and keep going . We have had a few incidents recently but the mature operators were aware and shut down their machines as soon as they noticed. Our fleet is getting older now and is time to remind the operators of the protocol in the event of a leak . The number one reason we use the dye is to be able to see a leak during regular maintenance trying avoiding the dreaded leak on the course . Many  times leaks where caught before they become an issue . Sometimes it just involves snugging up a hydraulic line fitting .

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Toro 5410 Reelmaster steering seeping hydraulic fluid

We have had both units start seeping from the top of steering pump . You can see when it starts by the oily stain in front of floor pan ( pic below) I have a feeling it's either from adjusting the steering wheel to get of machine or operators using the wheel to get on the machine . It will slowly progress to dripping down the steel hydraulic lines of the pump to the center reel .  

Not a big job to remove . 4 bolts here .

Now you can get access to front clip bolts .

When removing a screw head bolt ... loosen the nut end first ..otherwise you wind up stripping the screw head .

2 more bolts on top and remove front clip. 

Pic of front support bracket for pump .

Check this steering coupler . If worn out ..replace . Also grease well when re-installing . Check and or replace roll pin ..they have been known to snap. 

Coupler slides over pump .But first the Allan head bolts have to be removed . The large ones have a 9/16 nut ( wrench size) that can be held from the underside . . 

The smaller ones hold the steering column to pump . #5 metric Allan wrench . Takes a bit of maneuvering the steering to and fro to get them off . 

2 front support bracket bolts and it should all pull off in one piece .

Leaving the pump behind . 

Stands on the steering wheel pretty nicely . 

Originally we had one pump go on the older model . A new one was ordered . My thoughts was to get one rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop. To my surprise was a little more than the rebuild kit . Since we have quit a few machines with the same pump between both courses it would prevent major down time . To order or get one rebuilt your looking at a possible week. 

You can mark where each lines goes before removal . They will pretty much stay in their positions.

 Support both sides when removing hydraulic lines .Start here and do this side and then the same on the other.

Transfer fittings to rebuilt pump . 

reattach lines in reverse order . No need to crank them on . I think they where a half flat torque ( means tighten till you feel resistance and turn one half a flat (the flat sections of nut ) Bottom left first  ..  

Loosely attach steering column and start up machine and check for leaks and operation . Let run till operating temperature .  

Getting the small Allan head bolts to pump is made easier by using this ball headed Allan key . 

Almost done . After doing this 3 times I can change one out in an hour if the steering connections not fused to pump.