Ever have the problem of guys driving off with the park brake on ? There is NO kit available to prevent this from happening .You can go through a set of brakes pretty quickly . Our TX Gator has one and I figured out how to apply the same principals to the Toro MD and MDX .
I laid out all the parts and used a battery and jumper wires to figure it out . Finding the right power source we be important .
Finding the power source to make it the same as the Tx . On the stop and go switch ( accelerator ) find the blue wire . It will, only activate power when the throttle pedal is depressed . In the above pic I spliced onto this wire .
I have a good length of wire and wrapping it in 1/4 " wire loom .
Following the same path as the main wiring harness .
Down inside the frame .
You may have to use mechanics wire to fish the wire through.
Then bring it up in the same area that the park brake cables go through .
I'm using a Club Car Micro switch and placing it so as you lift the park brake it with hold the switch in .
The washer are just for spacing to keep it centered and I drilled holes straight through and used cotter pins to through washer and switch to hold it in place .
Finish wiring it up to a Club Car reverse Buzzer . I put it here so the guys could hear it better . Although it is fairly loud it maybe not enough . I'm getting some back up buzzers and may move it to inside framing of dump box area . They will defiantly here that .
So now when then key is in the on position and park brake lever is pulled up there is no noise till you depress the pedal activating the circuit for the buzzer .
Using the propane torch here too heat inside area of park brake cover .
Next , while it's soft I pressed out the area where the buzzer was getting in the way .
Creating the bump you see above to allow the park brake cover to go back on .
And hear it is . The guys should be able to hear this one . The first one took and hour to do but the rest where no more than 20 minutes with all the tools needed laid out .