Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Toro 4300 D winter service 936 hrs.

 
We have had this model for 2 full season . Very good machine and has treated us very well on this course . We went with this model because of the smaller 24" decks .The smaller decks  haven't scalped any areas on the course .  The machine will climb any of our hills with ease .We do have the AWD because of our course conditions . It will pretty much go anywhere the sidewinder can with the right operator .
 
After checking the machine over I give it a good cleaning . This is the only way to find any hidden problems . I'm looking for things out of place or cracks in the frame and checking hydro hoses and steel lines . On this machine I read my Next Change # (N/C )on the filters . So the oil and oil filter / fuel- separator / air filter /all needed changing . Also the Hydraulic oil change was also due . The hydro oil change is the same as the 5410 unit . http://golfcoursemechanics.blogspot.ca/2011/12/toro-5410-hydro-oil-change.html It says to change out the fluid around this interval but the filters can be changed when the indicator runs in the red zone . (the gauge is in the view area between your feet in operators position )You are removing a lot of oil 12 +gallons I decided to also change the filters at this time . With my luck half way in the season the indicator would be in the red zone and would be time consuming to drain everything  into clean containers to reuse and possibly contaminating the system .



I did find the right swing arm on center deck was knocked out of wack . 

The pin was just sitting on the edge . I had to remove the pin and straighten the bracket a bit . 

I also noticed the roll pin holding the right rear deck had work out a little . Lifting the operator seat I was able to punch it back in place . 
The engine was due for the valves to be check at 800 hrs. I removed the 2 bolts on the bracket .

And unhooked the air intake off the radiator support . Plug the ends of with rags . There is enough movement in the hoses to zip tie it out of the way . Notice the intake tube to the turbo , it has 2 clamps , our newer model one has a one piece hose . 
 
Remove any hoses that cross over the valve cover . Plug all the exposed lines . The wiring harness had a zip tie that I removed to give it enough slack to get the valve cover off . 
Valve cover removed .In the instructions it says to remove the glow plugs I'm assuming it was to lessen the compression of the engine to make turning it over easier . I did not do this step .
The instructions talk about the alignment of these parts . I had a trouble figuring out where the mark is on the backing plate .It is highlighten very vaughly in the instructions . So I turned the engine over and watched the intake valve just close on # 1 cylinder ( one closest to rad ) See the little nub on the backing plate Top pick ( left center )
aligning this nub and the TDC line on the fly wheel should be Top Dead Center.
But if you align the marks up and you see the exhaust valve down  ( #1 )you are in the over lap position . You will be adjusting the exhaust valve on #2 the intake valve on #3 and both valves on #4. Valves clearances are .145 to .185 mm or .00571 to .00728 " . The feeler gauge should have a slight drag and is adjusted by loosening the lock nut and turning the screw head . Tighten the nut when you get the valve adjust right ( if it's needed ) Notice how clean it is under the valve cover that's the result from doing proper maintenance and using good products . No sludge or varnish anywhere,
I used a large screw driver on the drive shaft to turn it over . If your facing the fly wheel it goes counter clockwise .
Here is the #1 cylinder on compression stroke ( exactly the same line up on flywheel and plate as before but 360 Degrees more (one full turn from above similar pic )).Now the valves are adjusted the same but different cylinders . Both #1 valves #2 intake valve and#3 exhaust valve are adjusted #4 is left alone . 
Make sure all the valve adjustment lock nuts are tighten up if they where adjusted . Reassemble in reverse order . Valve cover nuts are torqued at 5 to 6 ft . lbs. Check and snug all clamps also after starting check for leaks around the turbo . Snug the bolts up if it is and or replace gaskets .


It's a little labour intensive to get it this clean but well worth it . I'm going to try some wax on the deck tops to see if it will help with the removal of grass stains . 






Parked and ready to roll when the season gets here . 
Notice the 5410 in the backround . I'm doing a trial with a piece of plywood to extend the roof to try to stop the dripping in the guys boots when it rains . If it works out I may look for tinted plexiglass to put them on the 5410 s and 4300 machines .
 
Brought in our second unit in the other day . I'd like to point out that while your doing service to the 4300 and 5410s to check the motor mounts on all four corners . I have seen posts on older models with them cracked on the top of the mount . Mine are all good but are newer models and problem might have been dealt with already from Toro .
 

 
 
Noticed the dent in the roller . It's usually not a consern I have a similar one on the other unit . But in this case the seam is starting to let go , So I have a new tube on order .


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