We had a rain day at the first of the week and it was a perfect opportunity to give the fairway units a quick spin grind to get me through the rest of the year . On the 8th reel I had a horrible noise from the grinder . I did check the bearing but seemed to feel ok . The grinder will tell you for sure if it's gone or on it's way out . Here is what it sounded like . I'm not grinding at all just spinning the reel.
When removing the reel you only have to work from the left side on any 5410 reel ( drivers sitting position )
Remove bedbar first . You can just remove or loosen off everything on the left side , rollers , brush kits, scrappers etc . I like to take all the rear roller and in our case the brush kit off on both sides .
Removing this bolt will take the rear grass shute off .
Next I loosen of the small box head bolt and back the reel end play nut off 1 full turn or more . There are only 2 shoulder bolts hold the end case on to back frame .
I had to remove our front roller bolt because of the roller scraper .
When you take the shoulder bolts off don't lose the nuts . They slide into the back framing .
You should be able to wiggle it off . If not get a rubber mallet and tap it here .
And here and it should come right out . Bearings are pressed on reel shaft .
It comes off pretty easy .
The other end I just take a piece of hardwood and give it a light tap here on the right side and it will fall out of the side case .
It's out ... bearing and seals are on the reel shaft . The reel drive splines can stay in there, there not in the way .
Bearing looks good . lots of grease .
Using painters tape to mark the direction that it came off . I like to put things back the way I took them off .
I don't have a press but this puller I use all the time for removing bearings , seals and many other things .
The seal easily prys off . The seal only goes on one way properly ( the metal side faces the bearing )
On closer inspection the bearing was in hard shape . These are a double ball bearing type in one race . The back set of bearings fell apart .
When installing the new seals they have to sit .060" away from the c-clip . This way they will sit inside the side casing when assembled .I prepacked the bearings and there should only be grease on the outside edge surfaces of the seal and bearing for assembly . I have no press here so I have to find a 3/4 inch drive socket that will fit over the reel shaft so that I can tap it in only on the inside bearing surface ( closest to shaft ) If you try to tap it in on the outside you will ruin the bearing .
This the right side case . I found it easier to get the left side in the case first and then line the bearing squarely in the bore of the right case a give light taps on the left case to get it back together . Reassemble everything in reverse order using manufacturers torque specs . You can find all this info on the Toro web site . Quick break down on assembly shoulder bolts around 33 ft. lbs . everything requires lock tight I used the medium (blue ) The large end play nut 1 3/8 ths nut ? torque in to 25 INCH LBS . and back off then re torque to 15 INCH LBS. Rolling torque was around or should be 10 INCH LBS. Then lock tight the square head set screw and torque to 15 inch lbs .
After I ground every thing and put the bed-knife back on and adjusted it to cut I checked it on the bench plate to see if the reel was still line up with the rear roller . If it's not you can loosen the shoulder bolts in the side plate and there is a slight wiggle room . Both of the ones I did were ok .
This machine has 900 hrs. on it . Greased very well and it just goes to show me how rough the fairways are in some areas on the course . Going to have to put the 5 lbs. mauls back on the machine again .
Compared to other makes and models I found this set up very easy to do after the first one . Nice job .