During the grow in 10 seasons ago it was getting labor intensive to hand mow and use trimmers to clean up overgrown treelined side cart path edges.
After the second season we dedicated one 7400 A mower for the job to free up staff to do other need tasks on the course.
My idea at the time was to use this machine and save the other 3 units on roller wear and damages.
Last season we traded the unit in and were left to going back to hand mowing, the other 7400 A is now the pre fairway cut machine.
I knew this was coming eventually and had an idea to try something out.
Looking around at my junk pile I managed to take a good engine and deck from different machine to get a base unit started.
Doing a test fit. so far so good. I love our TX gator because of the square trough access in the body I can make attachments to go on the machine.
1.5" square tube stock 1/8 " thick make a good solid bar to attach mower too. Stick a bolt on one end and slide it through the frame.
1.5" angle from some scrape pieces to bolt to deck of mower and a hinge point for mower to be able to follow the ground.
Once I had the angles right, I tacked it all together.
Found out a little bonus was to attach a chain on mower and loop it over the snipper holder bracket so when you lifted the box it would tip mower up off the wheels to change direction. Add a stiffening rod to take some to the play out.
A little early morning try out on the back nine. Did the front 9 the day before.
Worked better than expected.
I mowed the course twice now. blade stayed sharp.
Took 6 hours total and 4 lawn mower tanks of gas.
I'm doing a few upgrades to prevent post hits on the wheels.
Easily comes off in a couple of minutes and takes little space for storage.
If you look closely left of engine is the pull cable to take brake off.
Couple of videos.
Some upgraded steel wheels and bolted a guard for rear wheel so if there is a strike it will deflect away without damaging the wheel.
Also have to go at a walk mow speed maybe up to 7-8 miles per hour in good areas.
For obvious reasons I'll be doing cut and will train our best operator too.
To make it safe you would need an electric start engine (tap into gator battery) and operator seat pad switch so if they get of the machine the engine shuts down.
Maybe I'll get lucky and find a roadside giveaway. LOL
Recently view a you tube video from Trent Manning about measuring from bedbar pivot bolts.
Always wanted to do the same but couldn't figure out an easy way to do it.
This is my version I came up with for my grinder type.
Amazon linear digital gauge.
Not to expensive 50$ Can + -
I'll be using to old mounts for what looks like stone sharpener.
Installed 10 mm bolts.
Drilled out holes in lol near center of bedbar pivot bolts.
Mount to bedbar and then use the holders from grinder.
Gives an accurate area to measure from.
Had a piece of aluminum plate and cut a couple of slices in it to mount gauge.
Test fitting it to a piece of 3/8 rod I had around the shop.
Installed rod then attach plate to it.
It can also adjust in and out If I needed to.
Like this.
Turned out pretty good.
Brand new bedknive I had ground as per grinding instruction to find that this on was of by less than a hair.
Checking to see if by moving it back and forth on rail If the readings stay consistent and they do.
This bracket that came with gauge I just flattened out to attach to the end so I can adjust top or front face by just tipping bracket to the side a bit.
Top face
The add bracket stays on to catch the bedbar pivot bolt in either top or front face grinding
Front ... notice the bracket is tipped to right to catch the pivot bolt.
A couple of videos
So now when my leading edge is worn back on top dress days and touching both ends for set up leaves it a bit off I'll be able to set them all up the same and back to the correct front face.
Should be a game changer in this situation for sure