The starter / generator has a dual purpose . It generates power to charge the battery and run accessories . It is also used to start the engine when the accelerator is pressed down. .Have you ever had a cart that randomly dies after stopping and when you turn the drive clutch a little or push it ahead and it will go again as if nothing happened for days ? The brushes may need to be replaced.Also there are 2 micro switches that activate this circuit . One is on the forward / reverse lever and the other is in the black box under the drive seat side .
Very easy to remove and the wiring pretty much keep their shape for easy assembly . If the white wire is loose it may do the same thing as bad brushes .
There are 4 rubber plugs so you can clean and inspect the brushes for wear .
Disconnect the battery before you start.
Use a 2 - 9/16th wrenches to loosen bolts holding it the engine bracket and then the 1/2" wrench to loosen the adjustment nut then remove the belt off the generator pulley .Remove wires off the generator keeping track were they go, If it's your first time you can right on the generator the colors of the wires removed Y,W,B,G . Remove the bolts and lift out .
I buff a little area off and mark a line to help line it up later . There are notches that let you know if it's line up right anyway but it makes good practice when disassembling multiple parts to mark them .
Surprisingly the brushes where in good shape and not to the wear limit yet . There is a good 1200 hrs. on them . Once a year I will pull the rubber plugs and spray the brush area with contact cleaner then blow it out with a little compressed air .
The center one in the pic had little spring tension on the brush and might have been the cause to the problem . It's fixed in the pic , I just wound it around a half turn to get the spring tension back on . It must have been not assemble right last time I replaced them .
Putting it in a vice helps to make it easier to work on .
I cleaned of the armature and other parts before assembly .Check the bearings and replace if needed .
I cleaned of the armature and other parts before assembly .Check the bearings and replace if needed .
If you had to replace the brushes they will come as a kit and you just screw them in place . To get the top back on with the brushes in you will have to push the brushes out of the holder till the spring sits on the side. Line your marks on all the parts and install the 2 long bolts that hold it all together. Push the brushes into the holders making sure the spring sets squarely on top .
Clean up all the wiring and contact areas . I coat them with die-electric grease
You can re install all the rubber plugs . The vented one goes on the A2 brush which is the bottom one when it's all installed . Re install in reverse order and clean up the rest of the wiring connections .
This will work most of the time if it doesn't then there may be a problem with the armature which involves some tools not usually found in our shops . We have and alternator shop nearby that can refurbish them for around $100.00 .
Hey bob I have a question for u ... I have a problem with some ez go that takes few seconds to go .. The start generator turns right away when pushing the pedal .. Belt has good tension it just takes few seconds to go ... Any ideas
ReplyDeleteHaven't worked on any EZ go but an older weak battery or bad ground /cables/connection will do the same.
ReplyDeleteI meant to say carry all turf 2
ReplyDeleteSounds like your belt is slipping to me. Even though it's good and tight a dried out belt will still slip. I suggest a new belt and adjust starter/ generator so belt is very tight. Works for me
ReplyDeleteExactly that's the first step in trouble shooting. Also to tight a belt will wear the bearings out prematurely.
ReplyDeleteI just put a new engine in my Club car carryall. FE400 2003. I am having problems with it starting after it warms up. The generator/ starter seems to be running hot. Sometimes you have to press the petal a few times for it to do anything ( may be a bad connection somewhere) but usually the problem is the starter will turn the engine but it will not fire. Seems to be getting fuel. I have taken the plug out and it has spark. Also, sometimes the starter acts like it doesn't want to turn, most of the time this is not an issue though. Once it turns over, it will run as long as I keep giving it some gas. This seems to be a problem after the engine is shut down and needs to be restarted. Engine seems to have a slight miss about every 2-3 seconds. James
ReplyDeleteHow old is the battery? Could have a bad cell. Check grounds and micro switches in f/r lever and black box. Sometimes the tab on the micro switch on lever gets bent and has trouble making contact. I'd trickle charge the battery and load test it first.
ReplyDeleteI'll give that a try today. The battery is new but i'll still trickle charge and test it. I also may use this page and check out the starter/ generator. Belt is a little over a year old and not used much, i'll put some belt dressing on it. I also need to check the A2 bolt on the starter. I do not recall seeing the short black wire hooked to the A2 bolt. It looks like it grounds to the mounting bolts? (The 10th picture down from top of this page, starter has the wire brush setting on it). If this wire is missing, could it cause the starter to run hot with no sufficient ground? I inherited the cart from work, previous improper rebuild put a hole in the crankcase. I believe when it was rebuilt, there may have been some alcohol involved and misplaced parts. I appreciate your response and will try to keep you and your followers updated on my results. James
ReplyDeleteYep there us one that goes to mounting bolt. Might be your problem.
ReplyDeleteI checked it, it runs from the A2 into the wiring harness and grounds elsewhere, I assume. I moved the pedal back and forth and it would fire sometimes when I moved it around, I do believe there is a switch issue somewhere. The heat in the starter/ generator seems to come from the F2 bolt and white wire coming from the solenoid. I'll replace this wire, maybe it has a partial short. The other wires and hookups seem to be staying cool.
ReplyDeleteThere was one time where that I found the paper work off on windings in the Shell. It was slowly draining the battery if it sat for a few days.
ReplyDeleteBeen busy with work the last few weeks, but here is what I have came up with.
ReplyDeleteIn regards to the starter turning the engine but the engine not firing up when I press on the gas pedal. I have found that if I back off on the pedal when it turns the engine, but doesn't fire up, I can find a spot where it will fire up the engine. This spot is located at about the same point where the starter activates. This tells me the problem is somewhere in the switches. Or is it suppose to be this way??
Now, in regards to the starter becoming hot. I cleaned the A2 terminal with some electrical cleaner and a steel brush. This seemed to eliminate the terminal heating up but the starter/generator still gets really hot to the touch after you ride around for 10-15 minutes. It is not hot enough to burn you immediately but you can only keep your hand on it a couple seconds.
Just to clarify, should there be a grounding wire coming off of the a2 terminal that goes to the mounting bracket along with a ground wire also coming off of the a2 that goes into the wiring harness. It looks like the one in the harness goes directly to the battery. I cant tell by you photo of the installed starter/generator.
I have a club cart not sure of year yet. When peddle is pressed the starter will turn but belt will not. If i press the peddle three or 4 times it will finally start up and go. I tightened the starter belt and it seemed to fix the problem but just for about the next 5 or 6 starts. Could this be a belt problem or a starter problem. Thanks
ReplyDeleteBelt problem. Try a new belt and use some emery cloth to sand if any sheen on pulleys.
DeleteOk Thanks ill try that
ReplyDeleteHi, I purchased a used Club Car Carryall 1 and its previous problem was the battery not charging and a fried voltage regulator. I have a new battery and all I got was a click of the solenoid. With a new solenoid installed and I decided to bench test the starter/generator only finding out that it did not turn over when I jumped started it directly to the starter/generator. It looks to be bad brushes which I am taking it to get rebuilt. My question is would the RPM limiter cause the motor and starter/generator to over rev and overcharge the battery?? I did find the RPM limiter wires disconnected before I started working on it. Or is it the ground governor in the tans axle?? Would the ground governor effect the speed of the charging process? Your thoughts? thank you.
ReplyDeleteRebuild the starter/gen. Hook up Rev limiter wires . I don't think they will run right or long with out it. Governor is in the engine. Centrifugal type I believe. Charging is controlled by regulator. If the battery is good and generator works the the regulator does the rest. Occasionally I have seen bad new batteries to.
ReplyDeleteClub car with FE 290 engine. Mash pedal and starter turns over and the stops on compression stroke . Mash pedal and let it go a couple of times in rythem and it gets pass compression stork and them it cranks. Any ideas. Thank You
ReplyDeleteBelt is either slipping. If not battery might not be holding a charge. Jump a good battery to it and see if it works. If it does its either the charging system (regulator/brushes etc) or battery is over 5years old and not holding a charge.
ReplyDeleteI have a 94 cc. I have replaced 3 starters generators in the past 5 years. Just replaced it 2 weeks ago and now it acts like its bad again. When i push on the gas pedel i hear the clicking but the starter will not turn. Any ideas
ReplyDeleteI have replaced the starter generator many times in my 94 cc. I just replaced it again 2 weeks ago and it seems like it went bad again. I push on the gas pedal and the starter will not turn over. Any ideas on why the starters would go bad ao fast?
ReplyDeleteIs the battery good and fully charged . Charging system not overcharging by any chance . Battery's only seem to last 4 to 5 years . I've even had bad new batteries . I'd check the source (battery) first then charging system . Should on read 14.6 +- while it's running .
ReplyDeleteEither voltage regulator is not working or you need to pop the rubber plugs out and blow any debris that's in there from brush wear . A good contact electric cleaner can be sprayed in there to might help . Did you loss test the battery after charging it ? Also check ground wires for damage or corrosion
ReplyDeleteI am getting 12.95 volts to starter generator and it will not turn over. Sometimes if I mess with the pully I can feel like it wants to turn, but it wont turn over.
ReplyDeleteHave you checked the ground cable from head or valve cover to frame . Also try a different battery or run jumper cables to a known good one and see if it turns over , you could also use jumper cable from engine to frame and see if it goes .
ReplyDeleteI have checked all the grounds and they are all tight. I also cleaned them with electrical cleaner. Took the starter off and pulled off the rubber plugs and sprayed with electrical cleaner. The inside of the starter smelled burnt. Reinstalled starter and still woll not turn over. Is a burnt smell normal?
ReplyDeleteA burnt smell isn't normal! It's toast . If you get s new I'd replace the voltage regulator where you been having issues with them . They should last a good 5 years of constant use before needing brushes.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your help. I was debating wether to replace that or not.
ReplyDeleteI replaced the voltage regulator. I now have 15.5 volts at battery and when i let off the pedel the cart will not stop running.
ReplyDeleteUsually their 14.6 to 14.8 but your battery is most likely asking for charge . Might be the key switch , shirted micro switch ( least likely ) if it's chugging when you let off the pedal it may be the accelerator rod section that goes up through the black box under the seat . I've seen them seize up a few times .
ReplyDeleteIt is not chugging. It acts like its in idle mode. The micro switches look to be lined up properly. The pedel rod section doesnt seem to be seized up. The original voltage regulator was square and the new one is rectangular. Would that make a difference? Only happened after I put the new voltage regulator in.
ReplyDeleteI don't think that would make a difference . Check the tabs on micro switches to make sure ones not bent . Are the wires hooked up properly on micro switches ?
DeleteAlso check that the plastic cable holder in black box is not hitting or binding on wires etc,
DeleteOne is on the forward / reverse lever and the other is in the black box under the drive seat side . Can you show please
ReplyDeleteI wish I could but I don't have any here at the new course I'm at. Both under the seat black box has on screw on top to remove cover directly under drivers seat the other set is on the inside centre off forward /reverse lever .
ReplyDeleteI have a 09 ezgo rxv new clutch new starter generator new battery new voltage new solenoid it starts running for a few hours then it's completely dead charge the battery then drive again as soon as I stop dead again. Please help.?
ReplyDeleteMight be a short in a wire . Clean up ground wires and any connections .and I would trickle charge batter and load test it to rule it out . I have seen bad new batteries before .
ReplyDeleteReplaced brushes in the starter on my yamaha now all of my ground wires have melted. From the actual motor ground and blue wire from the motor not the starter
ReplyDeleteMaybe one of the brush wires is grounded out on casing ?
DeleteBob I got 2nd gen Yamaha. It starts but will not charge. Bench tested starter/gen and replaced voltage regulator. Voltage goes up as I rev but never over 11.3.
ReplyDeleteHas the starter/gen been cleaned up and brushes checked ? When you tested voltage was it on battery terminals ? If so ..also trickle charge battery and check specific gravity in each cell . Might have a dead 0r bad cell . Also load test battery .
ReplyDeleteI didn't load test battery. It will discharge battery within minutes. All wires appear good and fuses are good.
ReplyDeleteYes. Starter has been cleaned up the battery is ok.
ReplyDeleteHave you checked the wiring to make sure the starter/gen red wire is getting +12 volts ?? Grounding the green wire will produce nothing if the red wire is not energized. You should also disconnect (red and grn wire) at the starter/gen (gen. field) and check the resistance with an ohmmeter. Should be around 5 ohms. If it's showing infinite then it's shorted out somewhere in the windings .
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DeleteCopy paste this if it doesn't come up on my blog . http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/steverand/Yamaha%20G2%20Golf%20Cart/SchematicColor.jpg
DeleteSounds like there might be a short in the starter windings . I'd get it tested to rule it out . Not familar with the yamahas . We had a few a long time ago that seem to just run forever . Also clean fuses /holders and ignition switch wires . And any wires on throttle pedal or linkages if there is any . Club car have micro switches in there system . But if it starts and drains the battery I'm thinking it's the starter generator windings or short inside. I've seen the windings from the case ( paper worn off )shorting against the stator . Pretty rare but you never no . Good luck
ReplyDeleteThank you. It is getting 12v to red wire and resistance is good. I will test more today.
ReplyDeleteThanks. It was wired wrong.
ReplyDeletePerfect . Merry Christmas
DeleteHi bob sounds like you really know your stuff, I have a carryall 272 and you turn the ignition on , put it in forward, push the pedal there is nothing starter does not turn silonoid does not click, also I shorted it at the silonoid and the starter/gen will just barley turn over, the battery is good, what's your thoughts?
ReplyDeleteLoad test battery to rule it out . Check wires going to solenoid and key switch . Also check micro switches and pull caps off starter gen and check brushes . That's if it just started doing it . If it's a new to you machine check wires to make sure their on on the right places . Main batter cables .... Check sheathing for bumps ( corroded broken wire ) and connections . Clean up all ground wires and connection points in wiring harness .
ReplyDeleteYes it's a new machine to me only 663 hrs on it but bought it as is, I pulled of the caps on the gen and blow it out the vent cap was in the wrong spot and there was a lot of dust built up inside it, brushes are wearing down but can see about 1/4 " sticking out to the spring.i am cleaning all the connections today, I already noticed they had all 3 wires to the - on the battery not - to the frame and the 2 wires from the frame
ReplyDeleteThree grounds to battery is quit common . I would change the brushes sound like their worn down . If you have a good alternator shop they can rebuild and check them for much less than a new one . Lots off dust inside is normal . I use to blow them out at least once a year . Them try it . You should hear a click when pressing on the pedal . Check that circuit for wires not on the right connectors . Their are some 2 way micro switches . 3 pronged ones sometimes they get hook up the wrong way . You can check the micro switches on F/R lever and I'm black box with an oms meter .
DeleteNot sure if this posted last time so trying again. Just picked up a 98 club car turf 2 (gas) and solenoid contact will not close with key on and accelerator pressed. Have 12v at solenoid coil and tested coil and is good. Where does the ground come from for the coil to energize?
DeleteHopefully the battery is fully charged . There are 2 micro switches that activate the generator ..one on the shifter ( has to be in gear for it to go )The other is inside the black box under the seat . there is a fuse here to 10 amp . Could be dirty . clean all connections . Usually 3 grounds wire either with ground wire on battery or bolted to frame . clean them up we to . turn the clutch over by hand to make sure engine is not seized . I'd even clean all the connections on starter /gen too . Make sure the wires go back from where you take them from . There is a link a couple of comments above with a basic wiring diagram .
ReplyDeleteAlso check that the key switch is good .
ReplyDeleteG2 Yamaha sometimes will not start. if I barely rotate the clutch it will fire up. I changed brushes and that fixed it for about a day and now having same issue. Could there be a "dead spot" in the starter?
ReplyDeleteYes there could be a short in the windings . Haven't worked on yamahas to much . Not sure if they had the foot pedal switch under the floor board or no but might be worth checking into . Clean up connections on key switch and grounds too
ReplyDeleteI have a yamaha model jr3-2179r-02
ReplyDeleteWhen I mash gas peddle it will turn over slow than stop but want go, if I keep doing it u can see smoke coming from starter generator
Check battery cables and all grounds . Check battery . Starter might also be burnt out from trying to start it this way . If it will turn over with a jump from another battery then it's s battery wiring issue .
DeleteHey Bob. 2000 Club Car Turf 2, gas. Starter generator is getting extremely hot. Brand new starter solenoid, starter generator, & battery. Cleaned all wire terminals to starter generator & at battery. Voltage output to battery when cart is running seems aweful high - 20v. Would a bad voltage regulator cause excessive heat at the starter generator?
ReplyDeleteYes . There isn't much left if everything is new . Unless new battery has a bad cell or something . Voltage should only be around 14.6 when running with a full charged battery .
ReplyDeleteAlso check battery cables for bumps etc under casing . It will show voltage but lots of the strands maybe rotted inside casing and would be able to handle the load .
DeleteI have a 2012 club car precedent that runs great but after warming it up all it does when you go to restart it is click the solenoid. when it cools down it starts again. The battery is new and the solenoid is letting full power through when it clicks. Is there something wrong with my starter generator?
ReplyDeleteNext time it does it look closely at the starter generator pully and see if the belt is slipping .
DeleteI have a 2002 club car it cranks fine but runs 10 minutes or so and dies , let it cool off and will crank fine but does the same thing. Thanks and God bless.
ReplyDeleteI have a 2002 clubcar cranks fine runs fine for about 10 minutes and dies let it cool off and will crank and do the same thing, could you help, thanks and God bless.
ReplyDeleteMake sure all your connections are clean . Solinoid in black box maybe . Pretty sure it's vented through carb but just in case check that tube the hangs down of carb is not plugged and try loosening the fuel cap next time it happens and see if it hours again .
DeleteCould it be the rpm limiter it got tore off by a limbs. The same time it started this, thanks and God bless
DeleteCould it be the rpm limiter it got tore off by a limbs
ReplyDeleteYep that may do it . I pulled one out of junk pile years ago and that's all I had to hook up to make it go
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ReplyDeleteHi bob. I have a 93 club car that I just replaced the brushes on the starter. It worked for awhile but now the starter pulley spins really slow and quits after one spin. Sometimes if I hold the throttle pedal long enough it will start and go but not every time. Also there has been a couple times I have spun the pulley by hand and it would start but now it won't..is that a bad starter/generator?
ReplyDeleteHi bob I have a 93 club car that I just replaced the brushes on..but now when I try to start it, the starter pulley spins really slow and only spins once then quits..other times if I hold the throttle pedal long enough it will eventually start and go or if I turn the pulley by hand a few times it might start as well. But lately nothing works and it spins really slow.
ReplyDeleteI'd slow charge battery and load test to rule it out . Then check battery cables for lumps etc . And good connections especially grounds
ReplyDeleteThank you! I will try that then get back to you. Thank you for the quick response
ReplyDeleteHi bob , i have a used 94 club car. the previous owner disconnected the after market led head light because they make the engine bog down when turned on. They are connected direct to the battery . Could this be the starter generator brushes?
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't think so . Led draw very little amperage , I would check wiring and light switch for a short . Usually there is a ten amp fuse that blows . Unless they home wired it and don't have it fused .
ReplyDeleteHey Bob I have a 2002 club car ds The cart won't turn over nor has spark. I have changed Ignition/coil and rpm limiter the ground from rpm limiter is disconnected and still doesn't turn over nor has spark. what can it be?
ReplyDeleteIf the battery is good there are 2 micro switches . 1 at forward /reverse lever and one in black box that have to be good to connect the circuit.
DeleteI have an 01 CC DS Gas that ran great then last season it wouldnt start so we replaced the battery and ran great for a bit then now its dead in the water and was told the starter generator is probably bad. Is there a way to check the brushes with out taking the starter off? Would just a brush kit fix it you think?
ReplyDeleteI would make sure the that the battery is fully charged or see if it goes jumped off another battery . If it starts then check voltage at battery 14.6+-. IF not pull the covers over brushes if their level or below brackets they probably need changing .Also if you remove battery cables and wires of starter/gen set ohms reading to 200 ground black lead on casing and touch 1 terminal at a time . there should be no readings . If there is you may have a grounded wire on the brushes/communicator or stater .Also see if belt is tight sometimes there so quit spinning but not grabbing the belt .
DeleteHey Bob,
ReplyDeleteI have a 2008 club car FE250 that does nothing when the gas peddle is depressed. When the peddle is depressed, it will blow the 10A fuse in the fuse/solenoid box.
I started doing all the basic checks, new fuse in, pop. Start chasing wires (with no diagram mind you). I put a new fuse in, key it on and check to make sure power is going to the key switch, coming from etc etc. I checked all the wires from all four microswitches to each other and the wires running from the key switch to the microswitches, continuity checks good and when I check to ground, all pass that test.
I found that the forward/reverse microswitch as well as the accelerator/starter swtich, both sounded like salt shakers, so I replaced those thinking that they were grounding out inside and blowing fuses. Well it is still popping fuses. If I remove the forward/reverse microswitch and press the gas pedal, it WILL NOT blow the fuse.
I can jump the solenoid by the big terminals and get it to run at idle. I checked for continuity between the small posts and they are good, but I didn't check the big terminals while I had power to it.
Just this week I replaced the voltage regulator, still, when the f/r switch is activated and I press the gas, POP
Any ideas if it could be the starter/generator, GCOR, etc?? I'm lost
Have you tried a new solinoid . Could be grounding out . If you did I'd check the starter / gen out next . Take it apart or get it checked somewhere
ReplyDeleteThanks for the reply Bob. I did replace the solenoid as well, I benched tested it and it worked properly but as you said, I thought maybe it had grounded out and was causing the fuss so I replaced it. Same results.
ReplyDeleteI don't have a manual for the starter/gen, what should I be looking for inside? Brushes beyond limit?
Could the diode on the solenoid cause it to blow fuses? I just resistance and continuity and it goes both ways; I was thinking it was only supposed to travel in one direction.
ReplyDeleteSomething must be overloading the currant . Wonder if you can by pass key switch and try and check the battery cable well for internal corrosion . If the starter/gen withdraw when you jump solinoid it may be ok .
DeleteYeah, I just have no idea whats overloading. I tried jumping the key switch before to see if that was the cause of the problem, by jumping from the power wire to the key switch and to the wire going back to the solenoid with the same results.
DeleteThis afternoon I took off the starter/gen...the brushes are worn down to where the retainers are pushing in as far as they can on the brushes. There are no obvious signs of things being messed up (burn spots etc) on the inside of the starter/gen. I did the ohms checks between all the points on the starter that I found in a 2009 manual and it passes all of those.
I'm just lost at this point...something is obviously overloading it but I've got no idea
If the brushes are that worn down and starter gen checks out ok . Put a new set in .
DeleteWill that cause the 10A fuse to blow?
Deletewas it running normally before all this happened or is it a new to you machine ? If it's new to you it's possible to have the wires in the wrong place from previous owner . Haven't worked on them in some time . Sheathing good on wires on starter gen . Starter gen grounded to bracket ? Answer is yes to the diode ? It should let power go only one way . It's possible if brushes are not contacting amateur well to draw more currant . Not 100% sure if it would blow the fuse .
DeleteHmm are you sure the micro switches are wired right . The micro switches 4 of them I think are not all the same . Some are open and depending on which spade is hooked up can be closed .The lever has 2 usually one for reverse buzzer the other one runs power to the black box under the seat and the pedal linkage also activates the solinoid . Solinoid wires wired correctly . There can be an outside chance that the new solinoid is bad . Highly unlikely but would make trouble shooting fun ,
Deletehttp://diagram.rogersvillegallery.com/2008-gas-club-car-precedent-wiring-diagram/
DeleteIt was running normally when I had it, then went out and turn the key on and press the gas and nothing happened. Then I started seeing it blowing fuses, so thats when I started replacing microswitches because I could continuity check them and it would go from continuity to nothing just by me rotating my hand, NOT pressing the lever, which told me something is loose inside.
DeleteI just got a manual for my specific club car and checked the wiring diagram and all the microswitches are hooked up right. One thing I noticed today....I did a test on the neutral lock out switch thats in the box, the switch that has the green wire that goes to the F/R switch and the orange one that goes to the solenoid. I made sure it was hooked up right, it HAS continuity when the switch is open and DOES NOT when you activate the switch....for that circuit its NC but there is continuity when its open, so I'm lost as to what that means
I think because it is starter first then acts as a generator after starting . Will it blow the fuse if you remove starter /gen belt .
DeleteWell I messed with it some more, I did a step process of leaving things unhooked...I had the starter off, so I plugged everything in, press the gas pedal and activate all the switches and it doesn't blow a fuse. I hook up the aftermarket lights, do it again, and the fuse doesn't blow. I hook the starter/gen back up and as soon as I hit the gas, POP...So either the wires to the starter are screwed or the starter itself is messed up (brushes, etc)....Does that sound likely?
DeleteYep sounds like the starter gen . There are test to see if windings are shorted out . Could still be the brushes . Something in there is drawing currant or shorted out .
ReplyDeletemy starter generator doesn't seem to be charging, it runs Ok when the battery is charged but the battery is draining down during a round of golf. I have tested the battery with the motor running with a meter that measures charging and it is not reading an input charge.
ReplyDeleteHow can I confirm this and if correct can it be fixed?
Take the yellow wire off df terminal and tape end up so it doesn't short out . Run jumper wire from df to a2 . Use a multi meter set on 20 volts .put on battery terminals . Put in service mod and step on accerator voltage should keep climbing to or over 15.3 volts If does check voltage regulator next . If it doesn't the starter gens the problem and needs service .
DeleteI have a 2001 Club Car DS that keeps burning up the voltage regulators. I've been through 4 or 5 of them, they last a month or two, then they're burnt up. I've replaced the starter/generator multiple times (cheap starters, then a top quality reman last time), battery checks out good under load and fully charged, and I've checked/cleaned all grounds. It's been to another shop multiple times for the same thing, which they just keep throwing regulators at it. I need some insight and suggestions as to what else to check for. I'm basically at a loss now.
ReplyDeleteI would be double checking to see if its wired up right . Does it click under the seat when you easy gas pedal just before it goes ? Solenoid or maybe the key switch itself . Not much else to check . PM me if you need a diagram I should have something here on how to check both or all three .
DeleteI thinking Key switch . There are 4 micro switches in the system too .
DeleteThe cart was taken back to the shop i mentioned above, they added another ground off of the regulator. I'm sure it won't last long as they've done it before, but so far it's still going. It's part of a fleet, and I was backlogged on vehicles and equipment here in the shop so off it went for a quicker turnaround. If it goes down again, I'll start looking heavy into the solenoid and key switch as you mentioned.
DeleteI have a club car that starts the generator/ starter the moment I turn the key without pressing the pedal
ReplyDeleteAlso check the linkage . The rod that goes up into the black box ( underside ) under drivers seat can seize . Not letting it go back .
DeleteTry a new key switch
ReplyDeleteI have 1998 club cart press on gas it try to start making a whining noise the. Belt start smoking it will start some times some times it won't
ReplyDeleteBob I have a 96 club car I just replace motor and put a new starter generator on it the motor is bogging down with a load and the starter generator just blew all the brushes out and started to smoke what would cause this?
ReplyDeleteSorry for delay . (have you figured the problem out )Interesting ? Wired incorrectly ? or maybe starter /gen was running backwards .Some older CC ran counter clock wise >
DeleteHave a gas club car. press gas, will not go, hear a click from solenoid. tested solenoid and all switches and are working. can jump start with screwdriver in solenoid. could it be the starter?
ReplyDeletethere are 2 micro switches on that circuit to activate solenoid. ones on lever the other in black box . and check small wires from solenoid back check for a bad wire
DeleteI have a Yamaha gas cart. Engine runs fine in neutral but cart only hops a few inches in gear. What might be the cause
ReplyDeleteEither belts worn out or clutches are too . one may be stuck or have a broken spring not letting the belt ride up and down .
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ReplyDeleteHey bob i got a club car carryall...we cleaned the electric motor running the gas and tested it and replaced the 12v solenoid and it still sont move or anything when pedal is pressed...even checked the 15amp fuse and replaced with a new one....what can be the problem....the little switches? Theirs like 4 of them 2 by the f&r and 2 in the fuse box
ReplyDeleteYes I’d be checking them next .
Deletehi bob i have a g29 yamaha cart ordered brushes on ebay took whle generator apart cleaned everything reinstalled new brushes old one were not that bad took cart for a 20 minute ride came to a stop and cart would not start generator was hot to the touch i got towed to the house got back into the cart and it started do you think that i tightened the belt too tight would it cause or would the new brushes cause they said that the new brushes was for a yamaha
ReplyDeleteI’d check that wires are on right then double check that brushes (wires) are not touching case , Clean up any grounds etc, If that doesn’t do it get it checked might have a short . Also check voltage and battery . Could be over charging ( regulator ) was that armature cleaned up were it contacts brushes ? Also make sure all four spring clips are pushing on brushes . Hard to say what it is but there’s some ideas for ya
ReplyDeleteAlso trickle charge battery and load test it could be going bad and not taking a good charge.
DeleteO
ReplyDelete2008 club car. Starter turned but seems slow. How fast should it be turning over?
id try charging and load testing battery first to rule that out and then check starter/gen belt
DeleteHi Bob I have a 96 carryall I put new starter/generator on it and new battery and new volt regulator just put new belts but my starter it getting really hot after just about 5 minutes of running it what could be my issue
ReplyDeleteThey do run pretty hot . hot to touch . check for wires touching starter gen for worn wires and clean up grounds and battery terminal ends and that battery cables are in good shape
DeleteHi Bob. I ha e a 96 gas club car wont turn over New solenoid and battery. New micro switch was indtalled and it almost started but then nothing. Wiring is correct on everything. Battery been checked reading good
ReplyDeleteMight be the brushes in starter /gen . Turn clutch by hand a bit and try it again if it goes it’s probably the clutch . You can pull rubber plugs off starter gen and blow out debris . Do it outside with a mask on . And try again
ReplyDeleteHello, I have a 2014 club car gas precedent and it had a no crank issue. Checked brushes and yes they were bad. I replaced the brushes and it cranked great but no start. Checked grounds. They are good. Pulled plug and I have no spark. Unplugged the black and white wire. No spark. Do you think it's the coil or could the starter generator be bad causing no spark? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThere are 4 micro switches . It’s probably the one in the black box under seat . No sure which one now .
ReplyDeleteShould be able to test them with a multi meter . If I remember right one works the opposite way
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