630 Foley Relief Grind set up .

After spin grinding -  move the grinding head over to one side or lower it . Remove the 5" x 1 " stone and replace it with the 5" x 3/8 stone . Pull the T handle ( far left in pic above )and push down to rotate finger and guide to the upright position . Adjust the guide finger to just above the stone (1/16th or so )by turning the adjuster you see at the bottom center of pick . Just above the adjuster there is and allen key adjustment that can increase or decrease the relief angle . On the far right there is a lever that has to be rotated out and back in the other notch , this will release the catch finger and it should spring back when you push on it .

Move the grinding head to the far right and raise the grinding wheel up till it just catches the movable finger .

Slide it to right and it should ride up onto the guide finger .

Hold the reel against the guide and when you push on the catch finger there should be about 1/32 " play . If there is to much play it will hit the side of the guide . To little play will make it grind light one way and real heavy the other .

If it needs to be adjusted unlock the adjuster you see in above pic . The far right one adjusts the finger play the inside one locks it .

Slide the motor to far left and adjust transverse so that when light sensor comes on the grinding wheel should be past the reel . The right side is usually ok . Now Slide it back to center of travel . The catch finger should be in front of the blade ( hold reel against guide ). There should be about 1/16" play .

The adjustment to get this play is with the little T handle in center of pick .

Adjust the stone in turtle mod till it just contacts reel them back off a tap or two .

Move this switch down to this setting and reel spin switch also goes down . The reel spin dial  has no effect here but the next dial down is for how much torque pressure is used to turn the reel against guide finger . You want this setting light enough to not have to much drag on reel land but just enough that when it switches to next land it gets there in time for the stone to start grinding . If the motor is on the right and your grinding a some of the Jacobsen reels using the 9/16 th bolt  and you have to much torque it may unwind the bolt off.

I make it traverse on every land WITH OUT GRINDING first in case some more  adjustments are needed. You could just grind but if something goes wrong it can make a reel mess on a reel land . I would advise to be near the grinding area while relief grinding in case something happens . If you have to leave the shop to fix something on the course shut the grinder down .  good luck .

630 Foley Spin Grinding set up .

I had a little time the other day and going to show some key points in setting the 630 foley for spin grinding . First read the basic grinding set up in the manual . Service or have your grinder serviced if your going to be doing a lot of grinding . I try to go over mine well at least once a year . I'm setting up a 5410 reel but all reels have the same set up . Set the reel on the table top and line up the front roller brackets out as far as you can  to the ends of the roller. Next set the gauge up and adjust the horizontal and vertical adjustments on roller brackets to get it near center .

If you look under the reel the reel should be in line about 3/8 or less above the table top .

Roller brackets .

I have a brush kit on the 5410 so I just put light pressure on the tab . Usually you would lock down the rear roller .

I'm using the wide 5" stone for this grind . If for some reason it's hitting the front roller you can adjust the roller brackets towards you one or two notches or use the smaller size stone 3.5 ".

Hook up the bracket to mount the gauge . A good tip is to take a reading at center of reel shaft on the end and set it at zero on gauge then check between each land and watch how much it can be out . If the readings for example are 0 - .15 - .35 - .65. Then I would mark the shaft and use the .35 reading and reset to zero . Moving back and forth adjust reel to get it to read 0 at each end . We only adjust from the one side to with in 10 thousands of an inch . Once that is done , remove bracket for gauge and put gauge on the same pin on drive motor that the bracket was on . Now you are ready to adjust reel up and down . Spin reel around to find your mark from the other adjustment and repeat the adjustments . I might do both adjustments twice to get it really close .

The wheels on far right adjusts reel  up and down and front to back . Drive motor hooked up to reel . I don't hook mine up till all adjustments are done . The drive motor slide in and out and adjusts up and down with the large wheel

This lever unlocks motor from shafts so you can slide it back and forth to check clearances with gauge .

Right now I have the motor slide unlocked and turn the transverse switch on and slide it across till light comes on switches . You slide the switches so the light comes on when the grinding wheel is just past the ends . That's how the grinder knows to switch grinding direction .

Almost ready to grind . I have motor transversing back an forth while adjusting the stone up to the reel . I'm spinning the reel by hand . If it is just ticking all the way across your good to go .If it doesn't then double check measurements and if they are good then the reel may be coned . This usually happens basically if the reels haven't been serviced on a regular bases . You can get a PYE tape to measure the ends to see if they are coned or out of spec for grinding . If it is coned and the measurements from the shaft are right then grind away to straighten them out again . It will grind on one end to center and slowly cut it's way across the whole reel.

This reel sounds right at 15 transverse speed and almost 200 rpm . The reel spin switch is in the up position . To feed the stone up to the reel leave it in turtle mod and tap on the up side of switch . Start off with a light tic ..tic ... first . Once it smooths out a little you can feed the stone a little more heavily . You may have to speed up or slow down the reel speed . I have a trick for that I'll explain below . If it sounds to aggressive right away - back the stone off and adjust reel speed up or down .

 When your done you should feel an edge .

 

This is a trick from the Dealer ( Eastern Turf ) that came over to service my grinder for me the first time when I received them used  from the sister course . It was worth every penny to see how to properly service the grinder and I also helped out .  Once the grind smooths out for a bit you can see this line going back and forth while it's spinning. The idea is to get the line to stay steady while it's grinding . That's the perfect grinding speed . One more thing this line will stop moving at 2 or 3 different speeds so pick the speed that makes the grinder sound smooth. It should sound like it's grinding effortlessly. this reel was just before 200 . Made a good starting point for the rest of the reels . 

This was a long hard post . Relief grinding next when I catch my breath . 

5410 reel service .

Before grinding reel I checked them for play side to side and adjust them just enough to get the play out . Our course is pretty rough on gear so I check the lands for missing ends . I found both left units to have one each with a piece missing .I grease the reel bearings and clean the lands off and check for bends or weld splatter ( if the grind sounds like it hops or skips in could be from weld splatter )  I welded in new pieces so that I'm able to relief grind every reel land . I spin grind first then relief grind . Mounted new fresh ground bedknife making sure nylon washer are in place . Tighten bolts in snugly .Adjust lock nut so you can just move the metal washer .PS. I also check the rollers for play ,but since I have switched to swepco grease I haven't had to rebuild anything in 4 years + . Before the switch we use to tear down all reels and rollers and replace bearings and seals as needed . Very time and budget consuming . With the time saved I can have most of the gear ready for spring .

 I take the adjusters apart every season and lube them up . I also give the click tab a tap with the hammer so that it will make an loud click when adjusted . To speed up the reel to bedknive adjustment I hold up on  bedbar by the tab and click adjust it till it is almost touching . Also the click adjusters may seize up quicker on the exhaust side ( Right Rear reel ) A note ; If you had past bad experiences with brush kits from other manufacturers don't discount the Toro ones  . They have been bullet proof so far .  

 Next I but the washer and spring on and adjust nut down till spring is compressed then back off 1/4 turn .

 this is the bedknife adjusted at the most aggressive setting .

 The attitude of the bedknive is adjustable by moving the shims on the rear roller .

 I'm having some bobbing and line issues . I'm going with the less aggressive setting this year . I have also been making adjustments on the rear lift arm springs . We are suppose to get 1set of groomers for one machine . This may help with some of the puffy grass areas .

 Least aggressive shims are all on the top side .

 I just use the toro bar for adjusting HOC ( height of cut ) We cut at .625" I find using a bar verses an accu  gauge  a lot easier and is not a problem at HOC > .500

One of the techs on the sites replaces these bushings every time he removes the bedbar . I'm going to start changing mine out during the winter maintenance . I did notice some wear on the old ones .


 
I adjust everything to be ready to cut in the spring . If your gear is stored outside in the off season You may want to leave the bed bar away from reel so they don't rust together . My gear is stored indoors at about 10 degrees C . Fluid film is a good product to protect the reel and knife from the elements in the off season .

5410 service continued :

Finished the 5410 #2 mower today . Installed reels . Checked fluids and filter hr. # to see if any are due for change . Everything was good except the air filter needed replacing .

   " Filter hour # "    I use to change out motor oil and filters every winter on all machines . When changing filters I write on the filter when the next service is . In this way I can check them to see if they need changing at a glance when they are in for adjustments after mowing .

  I brought in the other unit ( 5410 # 1 ) today . The click adjuster where very hard to turn on the rear units . It started near the end of the season  . After a closer look I noticed that during adjustments sand and/or debris was pulled in causing the problem .Must have happen when I take the knives of to touch up on grinder . Next season I will be sure to blow the debris off the threads first . Three of the reel units where torn down . I have 1 on the grinder . After the spin grind I set up for the relief grind . The grind didn't sound right .It was also very lightly grinding right to left and a lot heaver from left to right .  After checking adjustments again I notice the gib plate on our foley 630 was slightly loose . There are 4 set screws that control the play . After the adjustments and truing up the stone I was back in business . A small video off what it should sound like in both directions .

Here is the pick of the adjustment made .

Bedknife replacement on 5410 Toro

Replacing my 5410 HD bedknives . There is a little bit left on them but will not last next season . So it's best for me to replace them now in the off season . I'll keep a few of the better ones in case one gets bent during the season . I find using a punch and hammer the easiest way to remove the screws .

 Once the bedknife is removed you have to clean up the bedbar by removing the rust . I'm using a wire wheel on a die grinder . Pretty effective . You can also tap the threads out to clean them up a little .

 Once it's nice and clean I put a fine layer of never seize on .

 I make sure the back side of the bedknife is clean before placing it on the bed bar . Next install new screws and screw them in lightly working from the center out . Torque the screws to 200 to 250 inch pounds working from the center out going side to side. You can get a special tool from toro to install screws . Before my time the techs had shims to shim up the low areas of bedknife so you wouldn't have to grind ( back then backlap) in to much to set them up .

YES new bedknives need to be ground . On the foley you flip the tabs out and set bedbar on . Tabs should have a slight drag when moving them . 

 Grind the top face first . Factory ground at 5 degrees . I'm grinding the same angle . There pretty close .

I'm grinding the front face next . Factory grind is 5 degrees but I'm going with 7 degrees . I also have an angle finder on the bar to make my adjustments . I find this more accurate then the sticker numbers on the other side of the side plate where the adjustment lever is . A little video of what it sound like on the grinder .

Club Car Rear end Bearing Noise

 Over the years I have replaced a few bearings in CC rear ends . You know when they are going because they start sounding loud and whining  . The bearing on the opposite end on the shaft behind the secondary clutch is the culprit. If you pull the drive belt off and the noise goes away then you know it's the rear end for sure .First one I've done on the lift . Doing them on jack stands I didn't find them to hard to do . On the lift I supported the right rear frame area in front of the wheel with a 6x6 across the big wheel forks . That way you can remove everything on that side easily . I used my tripod to support the rear end and move it up and down as needed .

 Up in the air with right rear suspension hanging .

 Place tripod under rear end . Remove U bolt over axle ,shock ,  drive belt , secondary clutch , drain gear oil , axle bolts , axle removes easily , remove all the bolts for cover , bolts are all the same size .

 Remove the 2  - 10 mm . bolts

 Disconnect forward / reverse cable .

 Separate cover . There is a spot for a pry bar to fit in to help start it . Here is what it looks like .

 The shifting fork can only be installed in one direction . Keep track of which way it came out .

 I wiggle the 3 sets of gears out and remove them altogether . I find it easier to do it this way . Set them on the bench the way they came out .

 This is what it looks like when they are out . You will have to line the shifting fork up into the lever when reassembling .

The bad bearing is the one on the left . I replace both of them on this shaft only . The gear oil I find doesn't get up to this area well causing it to wear out .

 I don't have a press but this works well for me .

 For the other bearing I use threaded rod to make it work .

 I drive the new bearings on with my homemade tool . Also replace the seal for the secondary /driven clutch shaft .

 When installing the 3 sets of gears take your time and get the bearings seated in the case and line up your shifting fork and lever . Set them in the case by tapping the ends of the shafts with a dead blow hammer . The shaft for the shifting fork might take a bit to get it in , make sure you tap everything in secure .   I use RTV sealer and put a little grease on seal lip  then reassemble everything in reverse order . Lightly tab around the case to get it back on .  Use the bolt pattern sequence in book for case cover . Takes me about 1.5 to 2 hrs.


http://golfcoursemechanics.blogspot.ca/2011/11/sealed-bearing-tip.html


Some of the techs are using this tip for this situation .The gear oil doesn't get up there well .