Groomers are all on . One left on the grinder .They all went on well with out to many issues . I had one problem with this one . When I put the cover on the levers would not raise the groomer on the drive side . After exchanging parts from a good working one I found that the floating plate was slightly warped . In the pick above I tried putting one washer on the cover stud ( right center in pic ) and when the cover went on it worked as well as the rest . Dealer was notified and pictures sent . Just in case there is a problem in the near future .
A pic of the drive side of groomer and brush kit reassembled .
This is the HOC adjustment tool supplied with the mower ( 5410 ) there are two adjustment screws .The right side screw is for HOC ( height of cut ) The other one is for adjusting the groomer . A good place to start is set it at half the HOC . That's the setting I originally tried .With our grass type and course conditions I had to go to about 2/3 rds. the HOC
Set the HOC first . Leave groomer levers turned back pointing to rear of machine .
Next flip the levers to the forward position and they are adjusted here ( no pinch bolts etc .)
The idea is to find a spot and hooking the bolt head on bedknife for HOC adjustment on one side and adjusting the groomer blade to just touch the flat surface of the groomer side of gauge . . Do one side then the other till they are even .
There are no pinch bolts to tighten afterwards on this type . Once it's set that's it .
Levers forward ...engaged
Levers pointing back disengaged .
Groomers on page 52 to 54 .
Basically it's like combing your hair your trying to get to just above ground level ( not into the thatch layer ) to cut out lateral growth and thin it out resulting in dense growth for a better ball lie on the fairways .
In my area you only have 4 to 6 week window to groom . Keep a close eye on the results . You don't want to over do it before early/ mid summer hits .